Guide to Canadian Rockies & Columbia Mountains parks

1. Canadian Rockies, in Alberta & British Columbia:   ARTICLE CONTENTS

• National Parks: Banff ■ Jasper ■ Yoho ■ Kootenay ■ Waterton Lakes
• Provincial Parks of British Columbia (BC): Mount Assiniboine ■ Mount Robson
• Provincial Parks of Kananaskis Country (Alberta): Peter Lougheed ■ Spray Valley ■ Elbow Sheep Wildland ■ Bow Valley Wildland

2. Columbia Mountains, BC:

• National Parks: Revelstoke ■ Glacier
• Provincial Parks: Bugaboo ■ Bowron Lake
• Geologically, the Rocky Mountain Trench divides the Rockies from the Columbia Mountains, which lie to the west in British Columbia.

CANADA: mountain park favorite photos (Rockies, Columbia Mountains, Coast Range)

Click “i” to read descriptive Captions. Click the dotted square to scroll a set of thumbnail images. Add any of the above images to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site.

Weather forecasts for Canadian Rockies by altitude, peak, and range:

www.mountain-forecast.com/mountain_ranges/canadian-rockies/subranges

At upper tree line in the Canadian Rockies, Lyall’s larch trees typically turn golden from September 20th to October 4th. Our best experience “living larch” was in September 2024 trekking to Banff’s Skoki Lodge.

Rockies: photo gallery of Banff, Jasper, Kootenay, and Yoho National Parks

Add any of the above images to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site.

Tom’s rating KEY: ***=spectacular, **=high priority, *=worthwhile if time allows, RT=round trip hike

Rockies: Banff National Park, Alberta: tips and recommended hikes

A. Banff town and nearby

• Hike over * Cory Pass on the Mount Edith loop trail (best walked clockwise, 8 miles) with impressive views of the spire of Mount Louis. The trail is sometimes rough and steep, but scenically rewarding. Beware of steep snow patches and don’t hike in inclement weather. We hiked snow-free on August 29, 2009.
• Drive *** Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A), a slower scenic route which parallels main Highway 1 between Lake Louise and Banff.
  • *** Johnston Canyon hike: Start early in the morning (or off season and weekday) to get ahead of busloads of hikers flooding this deservedly popular trail. Easily walk 1 to 7 miles, 300-800 feet gain, through an attractive gorge with waterfalls. Only walk further to the so-so Ink Pots if you want more exercise.
  • Castle Junction: ** Rockbound Lake trail (blog) via Tower Lake to a viewpoint above the lake: 9-11 mi / 2300-3000 ft gain | GaiaGPS topo.
• Ride the ** Sunshine Gondola 8-6pm, plus Standish Chairlift 8-5pm, open until September 22 in 2024.
  • ** Rock Isle Lake: 2 miles RT with 400 ft gain. ** Simpson Viewpoint is 4 mi RT / 800 ft gain.
• ** Healy Pass, a long hike to larches, is 12 mi RT 2400 ft hiked easiest from Sunshine Village’s base parking lot (without taking the Sunshine lifts). Backpack further as we did using a tent to scenic *** Egypt Lake (with optional hut), 16 miles RT / 1200 ft up 2400 ft down, a great area for larch fall color in late September.

B. Lake Louise area

Many months in advance in 2024, I reserved two days on the National Park Shuttle to Moraine Lake and Lake Louise lakeshore, where you can expect very crowded trails. Additional Park Shuttle seats were released in a rolling window at 8 am MDT two days prior to departure day. For self-drivers, Lake Louise Parking lot regularly fills up before sunrise throughout summer and fall, announced by updated signs. Check out the many other highly rated hikes in this article for less-crowded experiences.

• ** Boom Lake trail: 6.4 mi RT / 2000 ft gain, near the Continental Divide, features the mother lode of lichen polygon patterns, a holy grail for this nature travel photographer.
• * Arnica Lake: 6 mi RT / 2200 ft gain RT via Vista Lake: larch hike, rooty, steep | GaiaGPS topo | blog. Optionally hike onwards to Twin Lakes and Gibbon Pass.
• Lake Louise: ** Lake Agnes, the Big Beehive and Plain of the Six Glaciers: 4 miles RT to Lake Agnes; 6.6 miles RT / 1,283 ft gain to Big Beehive; 8 miles RT loop back; 11.2-mile loop includes Plain of the Six Glaciers Viewpoint. Elevation 5,720 ft. at Trailhead / 7,450-ft. at Big Beehive / 7,490-ft. at Plain of the Six Glaciers Viewpoint. Hikingwalking.com blog.
• Lake Louise: ** Saddleback-Fairview Mountain Trail: hike steeply to a beautiful larch forest, 4.6-6.4 miles RT / 1970-3310 feet gain, GaiaGPS topo, ** Sheol Valley Trail loops around Saddle Mountaim (thebanffblog) (which itself can be ascended 350 ft above Saddleback Pass via rock hopping).
• *** Skoki Lodge Trek and Loop Trail: see Tom’s September 2024 article, “Seeking gold larches in Banff’s Skoki + Kananaskis, Alberta“
• Moraine Lake in Valley of the Ten Peaks, best starting at sunrise
  • **** The Rock Pile: 0.2 mi RT / 70 ft gain, just across the outlet stream, don’t miss this classic overlook for beautiful blue-green Moraine Lake, magical when sunrise spotlights the Ten Peaks and mid morning when direct sun makes the bright turquoise water glow. Then hike:
  • *** Larch Valley Trail to Minnestimma Lakes and Sentinel Pass: 8 miles round trip / 2370 feet (7750 feet elevation) has been one of our favorite hikes — but be prepared to share the beauty with excited crowds, like at a popstar concert. Larch Valley leaves turn beautifully yellow in late September. Escape crowds along the short, unmarked side trail to Lower Minnestimma Lake, which reflects the Ten Peaks when calm and is rimmed by larches. Extending the hike from Moraine Lake all the way to Lake Louise (theblanffblog) traverses both Sentinel Pass and Paradise Valley for 12 miles total / 3250 ft up / 3720 ft down (or tougher in reverse, due extra elevation gain and loose scree ascent, and also missing sunrise views). Paradise Valley is best in larch fall color season; but expect the long stretches of dense evergreen forest in lower Paradise Valley to obscure mountain views.
  • *** Eiffel Lake Trail–Wenkchemna Pass 7.2–11.5 mi RT from Moraine Lake / 2000–3230 feet gain (5906-8350 ft elevation): escape the crowds by branching off to explore another beautiful larch forest and remote alpine pass. First, before peak midday visitation, optionally add 2.6mi / 700 ft RT to *** Minnestimma Lakes before going to Eiffel lake.
  • Moraine Lake Road closes around Oct 13 or earlier due to snow.

C. Icefields Parkway, from Lake Louise over Sunwapta Pass to Jasper

• See classic Rocky Mountains reflected in *** Herbert Lake at sunrise and morning.
• ** Bow Lake reflects Crowfoot Mountain.
• ** Bow Glacier Falls: 5.6mi RT / 600 ft gain, easy | GaiGPS | hikingwalking.com blog.
• * Helen Lake and Dolomite Pass, near Bow Lake: hike 7.2 – 11.0 miles (round trip), GaiaGPS / 1,150 ft. to Helen Lake / 1,800 ft. to Ridge above / -335 ft. to Dolomite Pass. See Tom’s photos. Above rises Cirque Peak 9,819-ft. Trailhead parking is in the lot across the highway from Crowfoot Glacier Viewpoint.
• ** Little Hector: scramble 5.3 mi / 4100 ft, blog.
• Great viewpoints overlook blue-green ** Peyto Lake and * Bow Pass.
• ** Sunwapta Pass area: Mount Athabasca and other peaks rise impressively above the road. ** Parker’s Ridge: Hike 4.8k round trip to overlook impressive Saskatchewan Glacier.
• Hot Showers in Banff NP: Lake Louise Campground, Johnston Canyon Campground, Banff Tunnel Mountain Village Campgrounds 1 and 2 (plus Banff Upper Hot Springs nearby), and Two Jack Lakeside Campground.
• Food: Get groceries in Banff and Jasper. Food is more expensive at Saskatchewan Crossing (small grocery & restaurant), Castle Junction, and Lake Louise. Restaurants are at Vermilion Crossing in Banff and Sunwapta Falls in Jasper.
• RV dump stations: Tunnel Mountain, Johnston Canyon, Lake Louise, and Waterfowl Lakes campgrounds.
• Camping logistics advice: Bicycle Jasper to Banff, Icefields Parkway
• See also: 2015 Sept: Garibaldi backpack + Canadian Rockies tour

Rockies: Jasper National Park, Alberta: hikes and sights

• Jasper townsite. Whistlers Tramway and hike: to save your knees, hike up 4000 feet and take the Tramway down (or Tramway round trip). See distant views of Victoria Cross Range, Colin Range, and Mount Edith Cavell.
• Hot showers in Jasper NP: The Whistlers Campground (closes in mid October), Wapiti Campground (closes in early September), and Miette Hot Springs (day use).
• RV Dump Stations: Whistlers Campground, Wilcox Creek Campground.
• * Lower Maligne Canyon: hike above a scenic slot canyon and gorge.
• * Maligne Lake: Bald Hills hike 8 miles RT / 2000 ft gain for views of Maligne Lake. Cross Maligne River to park on west side of Maligne Lake. Or from the same lot, hike Little Shovel Pass day hike 12.5 mi RT / 1600 ft. Or backpack the whole Skyline Trail in 2-4 days.
• *** Miette Hot Springs (Parks Canada): Soak in the hottest springs of the Rockies, with a good view of Ashlar Ridge (drive 1 hour from Jasper).
  • On the turn up Miette Road is Pocahontas Campground (reservations accepted) which will save you from driving an hour back to Jasper.
  • From the same parking lot, hike the impressive ** Sulphur Skyline 5.5 mi RT/2300 ft (to reach superior views than from nearby Utopia Pass).
• ** Mount Edith Cavell: Hike 2-5 miles to see spectacular Angel Glacier and Cavell Pond.
• * Athabasca Falls: Athabasca River plunges impressively at this roadside overlook and short walk.
• * Sunwapta Falls: scenic roadside overlook, or walk further to worthwhile Lower Sunwapta Falls.
• * Tonquin Valley: backpacked by Tom in 1992. More recently, hikers say this: 2021 external blog; 2017 external blog
• Columbia Icefield Visitors Centre
  • * Admire the Athabasca Glacier. Ride the SnoCoach on Columbia Icefield.
  • * Wilcox Pass: Hike 5 miles round trip, 1082 feet gain (7,790 feet max elevation). Start at Wilcox Creek Campground, 1.2 miles east of Icefields Centre.
  • ** Parker’s Ridge, in Banff NP (7200ft elev): Walk 3 miles round trip, with 910 feet gain, for a great view of Saskatchewan Glacier. Park at marked trailhead, 5 miles south of Icefields Centre.
  • * Nigel Pass hike.

Rockies: Yoho National Park, BC

• The town of Field in Yoho NP is 30 minutes from Lake Louise or 3.5 hours from Jasper townsite.
• Camp at Kicking Horse Campground or adjacent Monarch Campground, in Yoho National Park, BC.
• *** Emerald Lake: Walk around beautiful Emerald Lake at lake level 5.2km. Or hike the breathtaking *** Emerald Triangle 20 km (12 miles, with 3200 feet gain) round trip over Burgess Pass and Yoho Pass in a day as we did. To visit a fascinating chapter in the history of life, reserve a tour of the geologically important Burgess Shale, a restricted area near Burgess Pass. Guests at Emerald Lake Lodge can rent a canoe on the turquoise waters.
• Yoho Valley: ** Takakkaw Falls to Yoho Lake makes a great half-day circuit of 6.3 miles (10.1km). ** Iceline Trail is a classic day hike or backpack.
• Hike turquoise * Sherbrooke Lake combined with scenic ** Paget Peak Lookout (7 miles round trip with 1920 feet gain). Cathedral Mountain and Mount Victoria North Peak rise dramatically above the Kicking Horse Pass area.

**** Lake O’Hara (6600 ft elevation)

is a gorgeous area with many classic hikes from the campground, hut, or lodge — with LIMITED ACCESS. Tom enjoyed Lake O’Hara in 1995, 2001, and 2008 (photos).

• *** Walk around Lake O’Hara.
• *** Odaray Highline Trail to Odaray Grandview Prospect.
• ** Lake McArthur via Schaffer Lake & via Big Larches Trail in late September | hikethecanadianrockies.com
• ** Cathedral Basin
• ** Sleeping Poet’s Pool hidden high among the Yukness Ledges.

Reservations for the Lake O’Hara day-use shuttle season June 21 – October 6, 2024 were available by RANDOM DRAW, accepted from 8:00 am March 11 until 11:59 pm March 31 MDT, on the Parks Canada’s Reservation Service website.

No cars or cycling are allowed on the bus road to Lake O’Hara, but walking the road is allowed. Day hike 7 miles, 1700 ft gain one way, possibly bus back if seating allows, else walk 14 miles round trip. “Visitors attempting to hike the 22 km round trip should be prepared with food, water, bear spray, and appropriate clothing and footwear. Camping is not permitted outside of the designated campground. Campground reservations are required in advance.” In 2001, we enjoyed walking Cataract Brook trail (closed as of 2012?) to Lake O’Hara in 8 miles (1350 feet gain), but now you must walk the road or take the bus. Overnight accommodations:

1. Campground stays of up to 3 nights maximum were by online lottery in 2024 launched in January (Parks Canada). Tent sites have tent pads, well water, cooking shelter, pit toilets. You must also reserve the shuttle bus — check baggage limits.
2. Elizabeth Parker Hut is run by the Alpine Club of Canada.
3. The pricey Lake O’Hara Lodge (external site) offers magical meals and accommodation to guests on the shores of Lake O’Hara. The lodge is open mid-June until early October for summer and autumn escapes, and late January through early-April for winter adventures. Shuttle included!

Rockies: Kootenay National Park, BC

• A worthwhile short walk is * Marble Canyon, which cradles turquoise Tokumm Creek just above its confluence with the Vermilion River. For over 500 million years before tectonic forces thrust up the Rocky Mountains, a shallow tropical sea deposited carbonate sediments that became the limestone and dolomite rock seen here (not marble). Historically, humans have mined the colorful * Paint Pots, natural ochre beds formed by the accumulation of iron oxide around the outlets of three cold mineral springs, worthy of a short walk.
• ** Stanley Glacier Trail includes an impressive ice-carved valley, streams and waterfalls (7 miles round trip, 2000 ft gain).

*** The Rockwall

is a formidable array of east-facing cliffs forming the backbone of the Vermilion Range, stretching 40 kilometers (24 miles), hikeable via athletic loops or traverses.

• The Rockwall soars 1000 meters (3300 feet) over *** Floe Lake, an excellent day hike or backpacking destination, 10.7 km one way.
• An exciting two-night backpacking traverse stays at Numa Creek Campground then Floe Lake Campground. Hitchhiking, bicycling, or car shuttle is possible to retrieve your car from the starting point.
• A great 3-night traverse goes from Paint Pots Trailhead to Tumbling Creek Campground (where you can day-hike to Rockwall Pass), then to Numa Creek Campground, then to Floe Lake Campground, then out. For 4 nights, start this with Helmet Creek Campground.

Rockies: Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, BC

Add any of the above images to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site. Above photos include Lake Magog, Sunburst Lake, Cerulean Lake, Nub Peak trail, and a Columbian Ground Squirrel. Hike from Banff National Park to Rock Isle Lake via Sunshine Meadows.

Far from any road, the resplendent *** Mount Assiniboine (11,871 feet) is known as the “Matterhorn of Canada.”

*** Mount Assiniboine backpacking trip

is one of our favorite treks in the world (done by Tom in 1989 and 2009). Most people hike to Assiniboine via Bryant Creek in southern Banff National Park, then choose either A) spectacular Wonder Pass, or B) the easier Assiniboine Pass, to enter Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park. Choosing the route can depend on weather, your carrying weight, and optional use of helicopter.

The Bryant Creek Route starts from Watridge Lake Trailhead at Mount Shark Parking, in Spray Valley Provincial Park, in Alberta’s Kananaskis Country (which offers many other great hikes nearby) — reached via the H742 gravel road (Smith-Dorrien Spray Trail) — 1 hour (41 km) west of Canmore — 1.5 hours from Banff — 3 hours from Calgary. Parking requires a Kananaskis Conservation Pass (purchased in advance per vehicle per day, or as a 1-year pass). This example itinerary uses mileage to/from the Naiset Huts:

• Day 1: hike from Mount Shark Parking for 7.5 miles, 400 feet up, 300 feet down to Bryant Creek Shelter (6000 ft elev). Or use the helicopter to send your backpack ahead and hike 14.2 miles through Assiniboine Pass in one day.
• Day 2: hike from Bryant Creek Shelter for 6.7 miles, 1100 ft up through Assiniboine Pass (7000 ft) and then to Naiset Huts at Lake Magog (7100 ft elev), below towering Mount Assiniboine.
• Days 3 and 4: allow at least two days for day hiking around this beautiful area. Nub Peak offers a spectacular panorama — 6 miles round trip / 1,900 ft gain from the Naiset Huts and Assiniboine Lodge — or shorter from the Campground.
• Day 5: hike from the Naiset Huts for 7.9 miles, 750 ft up, 1850 ft down, through Wonder Pass (7850 ft elev) past huge Marvel Lake to Bryant Creek Shelter (6000 ft elev). Or use the helicopter to send your backpack ahead and hike out 14.2 miles in one day via Assiniboine Pass, as we did in 2009.
• Day 6: hike from Bryant Creek Shelter 7.5 miles, 300 ft up, 400 ft down retracing Day 1, back to trailhead at Mount Shark Parking.
• Read more hiking details from Assiniboine Lodge.

The longer Citadel Pass Route to Mount Assiniboine starts at Sunshine Village Ski and Snowboard Resort (7200 ft elevation, Upper Village) in Banff NP, reached via free seasonal shuttle bus, from the Sunshine Village Gondola base area parking lot or from hotels in Banff. Hike 8.7 miles to Porcupine Campground, then 9.5 miles to Assiniboine Lodge Naiset Huts (at 7100 ft elevation). The hardest part is a steep descent from Citadel Pass (7740 ft elevation) to Porcupine Campground (6000 ft elevation). Vast larch forests turn golden in late September–early October. No camping reservations are required after early October, but beware that winter is coming.

Assiniboine Lodge and Naiset Huts

*** Assiniboine Lodge (external website) includes all meals with their pricey, rustic private rooms. The peaceful setting in remote wilderness is priceless at *** Lake Magog, nestled under towering Mount Assiniboine. Built in 1928, Assiniboine Lodge was North America’s first backcountry ski lodge.

On certain days of the week, helicopters run a short, spectacular route from Canmore and Mount Shark Helipad to Assiniboine Lodge and back. The helicopter can carry you and/or your backpack to Assiniboine Lodge, where you can walk onwards to the Naiset Huts, Campgrounds, and area hikes.

For cheaper lodging, book your group into the dormitory-style *** Naiset Huts (run by Assiniboine Lodge) and use the Wonder Lodge Cooking Shelter for comfortable indoor communal cooking (gas cookers provided) and socializing, as we did in 2009.

Assiniboine Backcountry Campgrounds

are in high demand and can be reserved through BC Parks. In 2024, reservations opened with a launch window up to 4 months in advance of the date you wanted to arrive, at 7 am PST.

• Lake Magog Campground: is 25 minutes walk from Assiniboine Lodge Helipad. All 40 sites were reservable in 2024.
• Og Lake Campground: 10 sites were reservable in 2024.
• Porcupine Campground is at the base of Citadel Pass.

Rockies: Mount Robson Provincial Park, BC

Add any of the above images to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site.

Camping near Mount Robson trailhead

• Getting there: *** Mount Robson Provincial Park Visitor Centre is 1 hour drive from Jasper town, or 200 miles (4.5 hours drive) from Field in Yoho NP.
• Robson Meadows Campground: hot showers; 93 sites first-come first-served, 32 sites reservable 2 days to 3 months prior at at www.pccamping.ca or 1.877.737.3783 from 7am-7pm.
• Robson River Campground: hot showers, 19 sites first-come first-served.
• Lucerne Campground is located on Yellowhead Lake in British Columbia, 10 km west of Alberta boundary, 32 sites first-come first-served, no showers.
• Robson Shadows Campground: 5 km west of Mount Robson PP Visitor Centre, panoramic view of Mount Robson, 25 natural campsites on Fraser River, hot showers, group site, phone 250-566-9190, reservations 1.888.566.4821.

Berg Lake, Mt Robson backpacking

With a group of friends visiting Mt. Robson and other parks in 2008, Carol and I fondly revisited **** Berg Lake, which in 1995 was our first international backpacking destination together (earlier backpacked solo in 1991). Backpacking to Berg Lake is about 22 kilometers (13 miles) one way, depending on where you park. All campsites have bear poles, pit toilets, washbasins and grey-water pits. Reserve backcountry sites at 1-877-737-3783, change at 1-800-689-9025, 7am-7pm.

• Day 1: Hike 6.5 miles, 1735 ft feet up, 840 ft down to Whitehorn Campground (3700 feet elev).
• Day 2: Hike 5.6 miles, 2100 feet up, 360 ft down to Berg Lake Campground (5400 feet elev).
• Day 3: Allow time for the eye-popping day hike to Snowbird Pass, one of our world favorites. Hike 12 miles, 3100 ft gain round trip from Berg Lake Campground.
• Day 4: Hike out 12–13 miles in one day, 1300 ft up, 4000 ft down. Alternative: hike 7.9 miles to Kinney Lake campground (3300 feet elev); then on Day 5, hike from Kinney Lake campground to trailhead 4.1 miles, 470 feet down.

Rockies: Kananaskis Country, Alberta:

Add any of the above images to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site. Images include: golden larch trees, grizzly bear (brown bear), pica, ptarmigan, Upper Kananaskis Lake, Chester Lake Trail & Three Lakes Valley, Galatea Creek Trail to Lillian Lake & Galatea Lakes, Mount Kidd reflecting in Kananaskis River, Rawson Lake trail, Marl Lake reflections, and Sarrail Creek waterfall.

The provincial parks of Kananaskis Country rival the splendor of neighboring national parks but without the crowds, best on weekdays. Kananaskis Country is an improvement district (rural municipal administration) in the front ranges of the Canadian Rockies west of Calgary, in Alberta.

Detailed hiking book with maps: Gillean Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide – 4th Edition: Volume 1: Kananaskis Valley, Kananaskis Lakes, Elk Lakes, The Smith-Dorrien (2010).

Recommended hikes and services in Kananaskis Country:

A. From H40 in Kananaskis Country:

• * Lillian Lake-Galatea Lakes in Spray Valley Provincial Park: hike 7.5-10 mi RT/1614-2214 ft gain from H40 south of Kananaskis Village. See #30+30A in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).
• ** Old Baldy: hike 6.4 mi RT/2830 ft gain for a breathtaking panorama, with easy creek crossings. Park along H40 just south of Kananaskis Village and hike into Elbow Sheep Wildland Provincial Park. See #38 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).
• * Opal Ridge: scramble 3400 ft steeply up from Fortress Service Station, in Spray Valley Provincial Park.
• The following hikes along H40 are in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park:
• ** Elbow Lake Trailhead to Elbow Sheep Valley: Find the trailhead between Little Highwood Pass and Highwood Pass. Scenic ** Elbow Lake Loop is 3 mi RT / 450 ft gain, #47 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010). A longer hike from the same trailhead reaches ** Elbow Pass & Edworthy Falls is 6.1 mi RT / 1020 ft within Elbow Sheep Wildland Provincial Park | GaiaGPS | AllTrails. Explore further beauty at Tombstone Backcountry Campground, 13.7 miles RT.
• ** King Creek Ridge: hike 4.2 mi RT/2600 ft gain strenuously up to a great viewpoint; from H40 at its junction with Kananaskis Lakes Trail road. See #43 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).
• ** Pocaterra Ridge: 6+ miles / 2000 ft round trip from Highwood Pass parking lot. Golden Larch trees, tarn reflections, gnarly mountain peaks, colorful vistas. AllTrails. A traverse from Highwood Pass to Little Highwood Pass adds a stream crossing and route-finding challenges, 6.2 mi / 2340 ft up / 3220 ft down, finishing by crossing Pocaterra Creek at the large boulders at shallow water. Both trailheads are on Hwy 40. Blog.
• ** Highwood Pass — the highest paved pass in Canada — offers quick access to see larches up close.
• ** Ptarmigan Cirque Loop: 3.1 mi /730 ft gain | AllTrails | Blog. In 2024, we followed the construction detour signs to reach Highwood Pass Trailhead.
• ** Arethusa Cirque: 3 mi / 1340 ft gain, beautiful larch hike in late September, AllTrails, GaiaGPS, optional extension: Little Arethusa Route, 3-4.4 mi, 2040 ft gain. Trailhead. Blog.

B. From Kananaskis Lakes Trail road in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park:

• *** Marl Lake Trail: stroll from Elkwood Campground.
• * 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition Interpretive Trail: 1.1 mi RT, starting from White Spruce Parking Lot below Upper Lake Dam.
• ** Indefatigable Trail: hike 3.4-5.7 mi RT/1500-2550 feet gain for one of the best views in this exceptional area. Start from North Interlakes parking lot at the end of Kananaskis Lakes Trail road. See hikes #76+76A in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010). 
• ** Frozen Lake in Elks Lakes Provincial Park, BC: hike 8.9 mi RT / 1600 ft gain steeply to gorgeous deep blue lake under Mt Fox, from the trailhead on Kananaskis Lakes Trail road within Peter Lougheed PP. See #58+58A in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).
• *** Three Isle Lake:  hike 13.9 miles RT/1600 ft gain, a long day, optionally biking 5 miles RT from Kananaskis Lakes Trail road. See #71 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).
  • Or backpack from North Interlakes Trailhead to Forks Backcountry Campground as we did (10 miles round trip, 800 ft cumulative gain). From Forks Campground we day hiked to North Kananaskis Pass (13 miles round trip/2700 ft) with great scenery all along the way! The next day we day hiked to Three Isle Lake (5 miles round trip/1800 ft, much easier without a heavy pack), then collected our tent and hiked back to the car.
  • Harder alternative: a great 5+ day backpacking loop starts from North Interlakes Parking Lot via the north side of Upper Kananaskis Lake to Forks Campground, Lawson Lake,  Turbine Canyon Campground, North and South Kananaskis Passes, Three Isle Lake, up to the airy heights of Northover Ridge , down to Aster Lake, then out via the south side of Upper Kananaskis Lake. Combine #69+70+71A+72+73+71 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).

C. From H742 / “Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail” gravel road in Kananaskis Country:

• ** Chester Lake + Three Lakes Valley: hike 5.2-7.8 miles RT with 1000-1800 ft gain in a delightful ramble through larch forest to lake-dotted limestone barrens, in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. See #92+92B in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).
• ** Headwall Lakes: 8.4 mi RT / 1500 ft gain. #94 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010)
• ** Burstall Pass goes southwest 9-11 mi RT, 1550-2200 feet gain, AllTrails, dotted with larches, fabulous karst country. Stream crossings likely but log crossings may keep you dry in fall (but #85 ***Birdwood Lakes is drier); the first 4 mi RT are on logging road. #88 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010); #54 in Classic Hikes Canadian Rockies 2011. With car shuttle, Burstall Pass #88 is a great long traverse with #85 (but requires a scramble and bushwack via Birdwood Pass #85A). Blog.
• ** Buller Pass in Spray Valley Provincial Park: hike 8.9 miles RT/2200 ft gain (plus Ribbon Lake adds 2.3 mi RT plus 700 ft down & up) from H742. AllTrails. See #77 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).
• Mt Shark Road:
  • ** Tryst Lake alone is 4 mi RT / 1100 feet gain (#84), featuring golden larch trees in late September.
  • ** Birdwood Lakes & Pass + Tryst Lake: breathtaking views and a superb alpine zone, 10 mi RT with 2500 ft gain (or save 2 miles via wet shortcut from H742), in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. Adding side trip #84 ** Tryst Lake tacks on 1.6 mi, 940 ft gain. GaiaGPS | GoogleMaps Smutwood Peak Trailhead. Park in a small lot right off of Mt. Shark Road, just past Mount Engadine Lodge (45 min drive north of Elkwood Campground). It’s one of Alberta’s top hikes (not to be confused with Mount Smuts scramble), with high likelihood of seeing wildlife & bears. Walk easily up Commonwealth Creek Valley by a great waterfall, then grunt up a headwall to a beautiful saddle below Mount Smutts (where many turn back), then continue on to High Col and up the lower slopes of Smutwood Peak for a fantastic view of Mount Birdwood where Gaia topo says 10 miles RT / 2400 ft (or continue to the top of *** Smutwood Peak, totaling 11 mi RT / 3200 ft gain, on loose shale for the last 1600 ft; or 12.6 mi / 4240 ft gain with Tryst Lake). The view from the false summit is great of Birdwood but the true summit has 360 degree views, a bit scrambly and slightly exposed.  See #85 and #84 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).
  • ** Nearby 1km north: Tent Ridge loop hike (6-7.2 mi / 2153-2800 ft) includes larch trees and is “one of the most enjoyable ridge walks” (with some easy non-exposed scrambling), in Spray Valley Provincial Park. Clockwise is easier to follow. GaiGPS map | description. This trailhead is in Spray Valley Provincial Park along Hwy 742 just north of Smutwood Peak Trailhead. 1.8km from the Mt Engadine Lodge turnoff use a pull off on the right just past the trailhead (marked by a sign at a cutblock on the left). Blog. See #83 in Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide (2010).  
    
  • *** From Mt. Shark Road, hike and/or helicopter-pack to Mt Assiniboine and Lake Magog detailed further above.

D. Good base camps with hot showers in Kananaskis Country:

• Mt Kidd RV Park is enormous, found on H40 just northwest of Spray Valley PP, just 30 minutes north of Lower Kananaskis Lake and 45 minutes east of Banff.
• Elkwood & Boulton Creek Campgrounds are reservable in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. (If these are full, try the unserviced Canyon & Interlakes Campgrounds which are first-come first served.)

E. *** Talus Lodge (external link)

• is a catered premium escape to spectacular hikes (guided or self) in remote wilderness, in a private double room with all meals, with electric generator and hot showers via bucket. The price includes ground transportation from Canmore, Alberta or Nipika Mountain Resort, BC to the trailhead, where a hike of 7 km / 4.2 mi with 700 m / 2300 ft gain reaches the backcountry Talus Lodge. Up to 12 guests can choose 3, 4, or 7 nights. Talus Lodge is in a dry, sunny area receiving only 25 inches of precipitation per year, far in the backcountry between Mt Assiniboine and Upper Kananaskis Lake.

F. Calgary area

• Drumheller: ** Willow Creek Hoodoos & ** Royal Tyrrell Museum dinosaur fossils are 2 hours drive east of Calgary | Google Maps.

Related articles:

• Sept 2024: “Seeking gold larches in Banff’s Skoki + Kananaskis, Alberta”
• 2018 July: Canadian Rockies, Columbia Mtns, Bugaboo & Kananaskis hikes
• 2015 Sept: Garibaldi backpack + Canadian Rockies tour

Rockies: Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta

Add any of the above images to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site. Images include: A stream flowing through colorful sedimentary geology in Red Rock Canyon, and mountains reflected in Waterton Lake.

Recommended hikes in Waterton Lakes NP:

A. Hikes near Waterton Park Campground:

• * Bears Hump: hike 1.8 miles RT/738 feet gain for a classic view of Waterton Lake, starting at the National Park Visitor Center trailhead, early for better photo light and avoidance of crowds.
• * Bertha Lake: hike 8.6 miles RT/1542 feet gain starting from Townsite Campground. A good rainy day hike would be to Lower Bertha Falls (3 miles RT/574 ft gain).

B. Hikes along Akamina Parkway:

• *** Akamina Ridge loop (see 2022 trip): 12-14 miles RT/2918 feet gain steeply from Forum Lake to Wall Lake over Akamina Ridge (with a short scramble above Forum Lake) in Akamina-Kishinena Provincial Park, BC. Or else reduce ascent difficulty by hiking to Wall Lake and Bennett Pass, with optional side trip to Forum Lake.
• *** Carthew Traverse: ascend 2460 ft to Carthew Summit (7910 ft), descend 3670 ft to Waterton Townsite, 12.4 miles one way via public or private shuttle. We loved this colorful hike in 2002.
• ** Rowe Lakes: hike 7.5+ miles RT/1881 ft gain, optionally extending via a very steep scramble to Lineham Ridge 10.1 mi RT/3182 ft (or onwards to Lineham Lakes 12.3 mi/4500 ft RT, where you might better loop out on Lineham Creek Trail with car shuttle to save 1148 ft). Scramble up Avion Ridge to see golden larch trees starting in late September.

C. Hikes along Red Rock Parkway:

• *** Red Rock Canyon: stroll along a remarkably colorful stream. This is also the trailhead for the following hikes:
• ** Goat Lake: 8 miles RT/1739 ft gain, or 10 miles to views from Avion Ridge. Or loop further along the same trail:
• ** Twin Lakes loop: day hike 15.5 miles in a loop/2133 feet gain. Or backpack: starting at scenic Red Rock Canyon, do 4-day basecamp at Twin Lakes (6450 ft elevation) climbing 1540 ft in 7 miles (or camp 1 night at Goat Lake), hiking out via Blakiston Creek & Falls. On layover days, hike high along Waterton Park’s western boundary to do any of the following: 1) Sage Pass short hike, 2) loop north on route along Avion Ridge to Goat Lake back via Bauermann Creek, and/or 3) go south to Lone Lake or South Kootenay Pass.

Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta, Canada and Glacier National Park in Montana, USA comprise Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, which is honored by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. See related articles:

• 2022 fall: Glacier & Waterton: Gunsight Pass, Akamina Ridge; Calgary skyscraper art
• USA: MONTANA: Glacier National Park.
• Abstract Nature Patterns of Waterton-Glacier Parks.

Columbia Mountains, Purcell Range: The Bugaboos, British Columbia

Add any of the above images to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site.

*** Bugaboo Provincial Park lies in the Purcell Range of the Columbia Mountains south of Golden, British Columbia. Most tourists are distracted by nearby Canadian Rockies parks along fast paved highways and skip gravel logging roads, thereby leaving the stunning “Bugaboos” as a quiet retreat for hikers, climbers, and helicopter guests of luxury CMH Bugaboo Lodge. Hike in late September to see the glow of golden fall colors of larch trees, whose deciduous needles turn from green to bright yellow-orange. Stay in expensive accommodation at CMH Bugaboo Lodge and CMH Bobby Burns Lodge just outside the park, or camp free at 4 primitive sites in Bugaboo Septet Recreation Area. The following view hikes are best on a sunny day:

• Hike 10 km/6 miles round trip with 730 meters/2400 feet gain to *** Conrad Kain Hut for breathtaking views of nearby Bugaboo Glacier, soaring granite spires, larch trees, and sedimentary Rocky Mountains eastwards across the Columbia River Valley. This trail makes a fantastic day hike or awesome overnight hike with convenient shelter in Kain Hut (which for a fee provides propane stoves and space for people with a sleeping bag) or nearby campground. A few ladders and hand cables assisting this steep trail may bother those with fear of heights.
• Hike panoramic ** Cobalt Ridge, 8 miles round trip with 914 meters/3100 feet gain on a steep but well-defined trail. Two-thirds of the way up, Walter Cobb Lake (or Walter Lake) adds just 1km round trip for lunch in a forest of larch trees that will be golden in late September or early October! Don’t miss the view from the highest point of the Cobalt Ridge. Optionally continuing onward to Cobalt Lake adds 2.5 miles round trip and 150 meters/500 feet gain. Start walking from Bugaboo Septet Recreation Site campground or CMH Bugaboo Lodge or park at the marked Cobalt Lake trailhead.
• For a more distant panorama, hike up * Chalice Creek and Ridge, 16 km/10 miles round trip with 730 meters/2400 ft gain, measured starting from Bugaboo Septet Recreation Site campground, near the bridge across Bugaboo Creek, near CMH Bugaboo Lodge.
• For a close side view of glaciers and peaks, hike to * Silver Basin, 12 km/7 miles round trip with 450 m/1500 ft gain. Go past CMH Lodge, make the next right, and park at the first switchback to avoid the short, rough 4WD road to the trailhead above.
• * Bugaboo Pass is 5.2+ miles with 2200 feet gain, or longer depending on your car’s progress up the rough dirt road.

Directions to the above hikes in the Bugaboos:

• See Mountain Footsteps: Hikes in the East Kootenay of Southeastern British Columbia (Fourth Edition 2018, by Janice Strong)
• From Brisco (about 44 kms north of Invermere on Hwy 95) or Spillimacheen, follow signs to Bugaboo Provincial Park and CMH Lodge on a gravel logging road. After driving 47 kms (1.5 hours), turn right on a rougher road to reach Cobalt Lake trailhead and spectacular Kain Hut trailhead, or continue straight (left) along Bugaboo Forest Service Road. Before you reach the gate of luxury CMH Bugaboo Lodge, a left turn crosses Bugaboo Creek bridge: then a left reaches Bugaboo Septet Recreation Site (4 primitive campsites in a free, user-maintained campground reachable by 2WD vehicles) or straight up takes 4WD vehicles and hikers to Chalice Creek trailhead. Curiously, every parked vehicle is barricaded with provided chicken wire fencing! In the past, porcupines gnawed under vehicles; but author Janice Strong says porcupines damaging vehicles is now rarely a problem for BC & Alberta vehicles since the provinces changed their winter road salt, plus porcupine populations have declined.
• Related article:  2018 July: Canadian Rockies, Columbia Mtns, Bugaboo & Kananaskis hikes

Geology of the Bugaboos and Purcell Mountain Range

The ancient Purcell Mountains (a subrange of the Columbia Mountains) formed from sediments around 1.5 billion years ago, a time on earth when only algae grew. Not until the age of the dinosaurs did the much younger Rockies appear east of the Rocky Mountain Trench. Near the end of the Rocky Mountains creation, masses of molten rock pierced the old metamorphic rocks of the Purcells and cooled into hard crystalline granodiorite batholiths of the Bugaboos, 135 to 70 million years ago. Glaciers and water chiseled away weak overlying rock and revealed spectacular granite spires of the Bugaboos. Mining peaked in nearby Bugaboo Falls around 1906 — miners described a deadend mineral lead as a “bugaboo,” the park’s namesake. (Some USA maps label the “Percell Mountains” where their southern limit protrudes into the states of Idaho and Montana.)

Columbia Mountains, Purcell Range: Lake of the Hanging Glacier, BC

Hike along foaming Hellroaring Creek to spectacular ** Lake of the Hanging Glacier (see Google maps). Drive 1.5 hours west of Radium Hot Springs on the dirt Horsethief Creek Forest Service Road. High clearance vehicle recommended. On 2018 July 19, via rough but dry roads plus two small streams crossed, our Toyota Prius V made it carefully to parking at 1 km from the trailhead, making the effort 11.7 miles round trip with 3100 feet cumulative gain. The scenic reward was worth hiking over and under 60 fallen trees each way. (click for an external PDF guide to this hike).

For hikers, I recommend a 2018-updated book covering this corner of BC: Mountain Footsteps: Hikes in the East Kootenay of Southeastern British Columbia (Fourth Edition 2018). (I call it “Strong Mountain Footsteps” for short.) Southeast BC will attract us back to hike Jumbo Pass, Hourglass Lake, Tanglefoot Lake, and more.

Related article: 2018 July: Canadian Rockies, Columbia Mtns, Bugaboo & Kananaskis hikes

Columbia Mountains: Revelstoke National Park, BC

Revelstoke National Park offers a nice place to eat lunch then stretch your legs in a natural setting on the short * Skunk Cabbage Trail.

From the road atop Mount Revelstoke National Park:

• Starting with a public shuttle ride from the top lot, a pleasant hike is * Miller Lake 7.2 miles round trip with 500 feet gain, plus 1.5 miles to Eva Lake.
• Eagle Knoll Trail views the Monashee Mountains.
• From Parapets Viewpoints, see the Monashee Mountains, Columbia River, and Selkirk Mountains.

Columbia Mountains: Glacier National Park, BC

• * Bear Creek Falls Trail stretches your legs for 1.2 miles round trip.
• The easy Abandoned Rails Trail interprets Rogers Pass National Historic Site (2.4 miles round trip).
• ** Abbott Ridge Trail is 9+ miles round trip with 3400+ feet gain, to an great view of Mount Sir Donald and the Illecillewaet Glacier.

Add any of the above images to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site.

Columbia Mountains: Bowron Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia

Add any of the above images to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site.

See my article “Pardon Me, I’ll Run to my Ambulance Now.” This true story from Bowron Lake Provincial Park recounts my group’s adventurous 73-mile canoe trip paddling a rectangular circuit of wilderness lakes, where we portaged by rolling canoes on wheels.

Related articles

Enjoy wonderful Canadian parks by car, camper, bicycle, feet, and canoe — as Tom did in 18 trips:

■ 1989 backpacking in Bugaboo PP, Assiniboine PP, & Kootenay NP‘s Floe Lake
■ 1991 backpacking Berg Lake
■ 1992 backpacking Tonquin Valley ■ 1993
■ 1994 backpacking Garibaldi PP, reshot in 2015
■ 1995 ■ 1997 to Joffre Lakes PP, reshot in 2012
■ 1999 ■ 2001 ■ 2002 ■ 2003
■ 2012 ■ 2014 ■ 2015 ■ 2018
■ 2019 RVing Alaska-Canadian Highway; Cassiar; Yukon; Denali; Juneau; Glacier Bay
■ 2022 ■ 2024

Recommended guidebooks from Amazon.com:

Search for latest “Canada Rockies travel books” at Amazon.com.

• Lonely Planet Canada 14 (Travel Guide) Paperback – Illustrated, May 19, 2020
• Lonely Planet Canada’s Best Trips 1 (Travel Guide) Paperback – Illustrated, May 19, 2020
• The Greatest Hikes on Earth (37 book series) Kindle Edition
• Moon Vancouver & Canadian Rockies Road Trip: Victoria, Banff, Jasper, Calgary, the Okanagan, Whistler & the Sea-to-Sky Highway (Travel Guide) Paperback – Illustrated, June 4, 2019
• Lonely Planet British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies 8 (Travel Guide) Paperback – Illustrated, May 19, 2020
• Lonely Planet Banff, Jasper and Glacier National Parks 6 (Travel Guide) Paperback – January 18, 2022
• Gillean Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide-4th Edition: Volume 1: Kananaskis Valley, Kananaskis Lakes, Elk Lakes, The Smith-Dorrien Paperback – June 1, 2010
• Gillean Daffern’s Kananaskis Country Trail Guide – 4th Edition: Volume 3: The Ghost, Bow Valley, Canmore, Spray Paperback – July 15, 2013
• Mountain Footsteps: Hikes in the East Kootenay of Southwestern British Columbia Paperback – June 13, 2018
• Lonely Planet Vancouver & Victoria 8 (Travel Guide) Paperback – Illustrated, February 18, 2020
• 105 Hikes in and Around Southwestern British Columbia Paperback – May 26, 2018
• Hiking the Gulf Islands of British Columbia: 4th Edition Paperback – June 30, 2018

Search for latest “Montana travel books” at Amazon.com.

• Hiking Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks: A Guide to the Parks’ Greatest Hiking Adventures (Regional Hiking Series) Paperback – Illustrated, June 1, 2018
• Moon Montana & Wyoming: With Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks (Travel Guide) Paperback – May 7, 2019
• Ghost Towns of the Mountain West: Your Guide to the Hidden History and Old West Haunts of Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana, Utah, and Nevada Paperback July 4, 2010

The following Canadian Rocky Mountains parks comprise a spectacular World Heritage Area listed by UNESCO:

• Banff National Park
• Jasper National Park
• Kootenay National Park
• Yoho National Park
• Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park
• Mount Robson Provincial Park
• Hamber Provincial Park (not pictured in this article)