Above: By day hiking up 2000 feet
from
Gokyo village to the peak of Gokyo Ri (17,575 feet / 5357 meters
elevation), I acquired this spectacular panorama of mountains,
glaciers and lakes, in
Sagarmatha National Park,
in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Left of center in the background is
Mount Everest, the highest peak on earth. At the base of Gokyo Ri is
the Ngozumpa Glacier, the largest in Nepal, plus several
Gokyo Lakes. (Panorama stitched from 5 images. On smaller monitors,
scroll right to see the whole image.)
Summary
of our Gokyo trek
To organize your complete land package in Nepal, I highly recommend my friend
Ang Dendi Sherpa (email: angdendi@gmail.com), who runs
HIMALAYAN WORLD ADVENTURE (P) LTD (link to his web site) based in
Kathmandu. I traveled with Dendi in
1981 and
2007, and he visited us in Seattle in September 2008.
We flew from Kathmandu to Lukla airport, and hiked for 14 days, walking
up and down a total of 26,000 feet. We walked 2 days to
Namche Bazaar, where we
acclimatized for 2
nights. We next hiked to
Tengboche
Monastery, where fog obscured views. Compared to
my 1981 trip,
in 2007 I found better reforestation; ten times as many tourists and
yak trains; a lot more comfortable teahouses; and better meal variety.We proceeded to
Dingboche, our base for
a
spectacular day hike to
Chhukhung
(15,520 feet), on the north side of beautiful Ama Dablam mountain. From
there we trekked back through
Pangboche
then up a different trail, to Phortse then on to
Gokyo. The
highlight was ascending to
17,580
feet elevation atop Gokyo Ri, for a breathtaking 360 degree
mountain
panorama, which included four of the world's highest peaks (Mount
Everest,
Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu), plus the largest glacier in Nepal and the
attractive blue-green lakes of Gokyo.
The common
cold virus gave most of us problems
. We also coughed excessively due to dry high
altitude air and dusty trails. We coughed worse on
the higher altitude
Gokyo trek, so bring plenty of good
cough medicine. (A visit to the doctor at
Kunde Hospital
finally helped us suppress the cough at night with codeine, to help us sleep
much better). At altitudes above 10,000 feet, I recommend wearing a
scarf or
neckerchief over your mouth to hydrate the air and filter dust. I
recommend
washing hands frequently using soap and water, or waterless
hand sterilizer (such as Purell).
Click here to read
my 1981
account of trekking to the closer Everest view at Kala Patthar
(alternatively spelled Kala Pattar or Patar), which is within 6
miles/10kilometers of the world's highest peak, in the Khumbu Glacier
Valley, near Everest Base Camp.
Below, I start at our scenic high point (Gokyo, parts H and G);
then I discuss Lukla to Chhukhung and the rest of the trek in normal
sequential order:
H. Gokyo Ri:
Left:
Mount Everest (center left;
29,035 feet / 8850 meters from 1999 GPS measurement), the highest
mountain on Earth above sea
level, has the older name of Chomolungma or Qomolangma ("Goddess
Mother of the Earth" in
Tibetan) or Sagarmatha (in
Nepali). To the right are Lhotse
and
Makalu (both higher than 8000
meters). These colorful
Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags invoke compassion.
In 1865, Andrew
Waugh, the
British surveyor-general of India named the mountain for his chief and
predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest. In the 1960s, the Government
of Nepal named the mountain Sagarmatha, meaning "Goddess of the Sky".
The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High Asia, is
located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China.
Below: View from Gokyo Ri: Mount Everest.
Left: This map of the Gokyo / Everest
area shows our trekking route in eastern Nepal. (Click for more Nepal maps.)
Below: Carol and Leslie top out at
17,000 feet
elevation, most of the way up Gokyo Ri, within view of Mount Everest
(upper
right, 29,035 feet ), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.
Left: Before dawn, we climb the side
of Gokyo Ri for this view of Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584
feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal, in the
Himalaya mountain range of Asia.
Below: Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in
Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.
Left: Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari,
15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal, in the
Himalaya mountain range of Asia.
In the image below: Left
to right are: Mount Everest (29,035
feet / 8850 meters),
Nuptse, Lhotse, and Makalu (27,762; world's 5th highest; far right), as
seen from
Gokyo Ri.
Below: In this panorama from Gokyo Ri (17,575 feet / 5357 meters elevation), you can see Mount Everest (center left),
Lhotse, and Makalu. Look on the
lateral moraine of the huge Ngozumpa
Glacier and to the left of
Third Gokyo Lake, and you will see the village of
Gokyo (15,583 feet / 4750 meters), a small cluster of teahouses for
trekkers and climbers. (Panorama
stitched from 5 images. On smaller monitors,
scroll right to see the whole image.)
Above: From Gokyo Ri, you can see
four of
the world's six highest peaks - Cho Oyu
(far left), Mount Everest (center left), Lhotse, and Makalu (all over
8,000 meters elevation). At the base of Gokyo Ri, to the left of Third
Gokyo Lake, you can see the village of
Gokyo (15,583 feet / 4750 meters), a small cluster of teahouses for
trekkers and climbers. (Panorama
stitched from 8 images. On smaller monitors,
scroll right to see the whole image.)
Left: From the peak of Gokyo Ri
(17,580 feet), you can see prayer flags and Mount Everest.
Below: Our guide Chhatra stands on the peak of Gokyo Ri (17,580 feet)
above Ngozumpa Glacier, the largest glacier in Nepal. On the upper left is Mount Everest. On
the right is the peak of Arakam Tse (21,000 feet) and Cholatse.
Left: This view looks northwest from
Gokyo Ri (17,575 feet / 5357 meters above sea level), to a lower peak
on a ridge continuous with Cho Oyu.
Below: Trekkers on the ridge of Gokyo Ri, looking north.
Left: Left to right are: Mount
Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse, as seen from Gokyo Ri. Mount Everest
(29,035 feet / 8850 meters elevation above sea level, from 1999 GPS
measurement), the highest mountain on Earth, was first called
Chomolungma or Qomolangma ("Goddess Mother of the Earth" in Tibetan).
In 1865, Andrew Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India named the
mountain for his chief and predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest. In
the 1960s, the Government of Nepal named the mountain Sagarmatha,
meaning "Goddess of the Sky". The mountain, which is part of the
Himalaya range in High Asia, is located on the border between Nepal and
Tibet, China.
Below: Trekkers descend from Gokyo Ri
to Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in
Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal. The lateral moraine of the huge Ngozumpa Glacier dams these Gokyo
lakes.
Above: In this 360 degree panorama
from Gokyo Ri (17,575 feet /
5357 meters elevation), you
can see four of
the world's six highest peaks - Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu
(on far right, and shown again wrapping around on far left behind the
cairn), all over 8,000 meters
elevation. At center right, the nearby Pharilapche Peak (4 kilometers
away) dominates the skyline above Gokyo Lakes. Strings of Tibetan
Buddhist Prayer flags line the summit ridge of Gokyo Ri. Below are several Gokyo Lakes, and the
rock-covered Ngozumpa
Glacier, the largest glacier in Nepal. (Panorama stitched from 15 images. On
smaller monitors,
scroll right to see the whole image.)
G. Gokyo village and lakes:
Left:
Trekkers tents at Gokyo village on Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari,
15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.
Below: Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh
Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park,
Nepal. The lateral moraine
(seen here as brown hills) of the Ngozumpa
Glacier dams this lake.
Left: Porters carry heavy loads above
Second Gokyo Lake (or Taboche Tsho 15,551 feet / 4740 meters), beneath
the the peaks of Arakam Tse (far left; 21,000 feet) and Cholatse
(middle left), in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern
Nepal, on the trail down from Gokyo village.
Below: Trekkers hike beneath the icy
peak of Arakam Tse (21,000 feet), a Himalayan Mountain near Gokyo, Nepal
Left: Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari,
15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.
Below: A tripod cairn of rocks at
third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters).
Left: Trekkers descend from Gokyo
beneath the icy peak of Arakam Tse (21,000 feet), a Himalayan mountain
near Gokyo, Nepal
Below: Ice and icicles on a side
stream in the Dudh Koshi river valley (or Dudh Kosi) on the trail to
Gokyo, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.
Left: A heavily loaded porter
descends from Gokyo, along the Dudh Kosi (or Dudh Koshi, "milky river")
in the Khumbu region of the Nepal Himalaya, in Sagarmatha National Park.
Below: Ice and icicles on a side
stream in the Dudh Koshi river valley (or Dudh Kosi) on the trail to
Gokyo, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.
A. Lukla to Jorsale:
Left: The peak of Thamserku (21,680 feet /
6608 meters elevation above sea level) rises 13,000 vertical feet above
the Dudh Khoshi (Imja Khola) river, near Benkar (8629 ft / 2630 m), in
the Khumbu District of Nepal.
Below: Along Dudh Khoshi (Imja Khola) river, in the Everest Area of Nepal: Mani stones
are stone plates, rocks and/or pebbles inscribed, usually with mantra
or ashtamangala, as a form of prayer in Tibetan Buddhism. Out of
respect, people should walk to the left or clockwise around Mani Walls.
Mani stones are placed in mounds or cairns along roadsides and rivers
as an offering to spirits of place (or genius loci).
Left: In the Everest Area of Nepal,
Mani stones are stone plates, rocks and/or pebbles inscribed, usually
with mantra or ashtamangala, as a form of prayer in Tibetan Buddhism.
Out of respect, people should walk to the left or clockwise around Mani
Walls. Mani stones are placed in mounds or cairns along roadsides and
rivers as an offering to spirits of place (or genius loci).
Below: Sagarmatha National Park, in
eastern Nepal: These four engraved stone copies of the Tibetan phrase
“Om Mani Padme Hum” invoke compassion. Om Mani Padme Hum means “Hail to
the jewel in the lotus”. Mani stones are placed in mounds or cairns
along roadsides and rivers as an offering to spirits of place (or
genius loci).
Left: This mani stone and artful gate
with prayer wheels marks the entrance/exit to Sagarmatha National Park,
between Monjo (Manjo) and Jorsale, along the Dudh Khoshi (or Kosi)
river, in eastern Nepal.
Below: Tibetan Buddhist art and
prayer wheels inside the monument for entrance/exit to Sagarmatha
National Park, located between Monjo (Manjo) and Jorsale, along the
Dudh Khoshi (or Kosi) river, in eastern Nepal.

Left: A prayer wheel (called mani chos-'khor or Mani wheel by the
Tibetans) is a wheel on a spindle made from metal, wood, leather, or
coarse cotton. On the wheel are written or encapsulated prayers or
mantras. According to the Tibetan Buddhist belief, spinning such a
wheel will have much the same effect as orally reciting the prayers. A
prayer wheel symbolizes "turning the wheel of Dharma," which describes
the way in which the Buddha taught.
Below: The Larja Bridge, a narrow
metal swing bridge, is strung with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags, over
the Dudh Koshi (or Kosi, river) below the town of Namche Bazaar, in
Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.
Left: Tibetan Buddhist artwork seen
along the trail to Mount Everest in Nepal.
Below: A Mani Thungkyur, a large
prayer wheel, which contains religious books, seen along the trail from
Lukla to Namche Bazaar, in
Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.
Left: A red, white and blue colored
door in a house in the Khumbu District, in Himalaya of eastern Nepal.
Below: A red and blue-green door in the Khumbu District, in Himalaya of
eastern Nepal.

Left: The peak of Kusum Kanguru (20,889 feet / 6367 meters), seen from
near Thado Khoshi Khola bridge, in Nepal
Below: Yaks carry loads beneath the
peak of Kusum Kanguru (20,889 feet / 6367 meters), seen from Thado
Khoshi Khola bridge, in Nepal
Left: A creek flows over eroded stone
in Nepal.
Below: A line of trekkers and porters
hike on a swing bridge near Lukla in Nepal.
Left: Porters, loaded with vegetables
and supplies, rest their bamboo baskets on T-shaped walking sticks on
the way to market in Namche Bazaar, Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.
Below: Porters with T-shaped walking
sticks carry bamboo baskets loaded with vegetables and supplies up a
steep trail, in Nepal.
Left: A loaded yak (actually a
yak-cow hybrid) passes a horse, on a stone road in Nepal
Below: A child in the Khumbu
District, in Himalaya of eastern Nepal.
B. Namche Bazaar:
Left: My 1981 image of the village of
Namche Bazaar (11,220 feet elevation). The mountain of Kongde Ri
(sometimes called Kwangde Ri; 20,320 feet elevation) is 4 kilometers to
the west.
Below: As seen in 2007, the village of Namche
Bazaar is much larger, 26 years later. I found the Namche Bazaar area
to be much more covered by forest compared to 1981, thanks to tree
planting efforts by the Himalayan
Trust, which was founded by Sir
Edmund Hillary.
Left: The town of Namche Bazaar
(or Nemche Bazaar or Namche Bazar) at 11,220 feet elevation, in
Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
Below: Traders sell merchandise every
day at the Tibetan Market in the town of Namche Bazaar (or Nemche
Bazaar or Namche Bazar) ) at 11,220 feet elevation, in Sagarmatha
National Park, in the Khumbu region of Nepal.

Left: Trekker Carol dodges yaks in the town of Namche Bazaar (or Nemche
Bazaar or Namche Bazar) at 11,220 feet elevation, in Sagarmatha
National Park, in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
Below: Yak bells for sale at Namche
Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.

Left: The Larja Bridge swings high over the Dudh Koshi (or Kosi,
river), below the town of Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park,
Nepal
Below: A stupa, or Tibetan Buddhist
monument, in the town of Namche Bazaar (or Nemche Bazaar or Namche
Bazar) at 11,220 feet elevation, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the
Khumbu region of Nepal. On
most every stupa (Buddhist shrine) in Nepal, giant Buddha Eyes (or Wisdom Eyes) stare from four sides of the upper cube.
These four directions symbolize the omniscience (all-seeing) of a
Buddha. The
third eye (above and between
the other two eyes) also symbolizes the all-seeing wisdom of the
Buddha. The curled symbol (shaped like a question mark) in place of a
nose is the Nepali character for the number 1, which symbolizes unity of all things.
Left: A porter carries a huge load of
empty bottles over the Larja Bridge, a narrow metal swing bridge,
strung with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags, over the Dudh Koshi (or
Kosi, river) below the town of Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National
Park, Nepal.
Below: Heavily loaded yaks cross the
Larja Bridge, a narrow metal swing bridge which is strung with Tibetan
Buddhist prayer flags, below the town of Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha
National Park, Nepal.
Left: Nepalese
people walk above the village of Namche Bazaar, about 4 kilometers from
the snowy mountain of Kongde Ri (sometimes called Kwangde Ri; 20,320
feet elevation) in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.
Below: This mani stone wall and chorten, or
stupa, are located above the village of Namche Bazaar, about 4
kilometers from the snowy mountain of Kongde Ri (sometimes called
Kwangde Ri; 20,320 feet elevation) in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.
Mount Everest (upper left; 29,035
feet / 8850 meters elevation, based on a 1999 GPS measurement), the
highest mountain on Earth, was first called Chomolungma or Qomolangma
("Goddess Mother of the Earth" in Tibetan). In 1865, Andrew Waugh, the
British surveyor-general of India named the mountain for his chief and
predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest. In the 1960s, the Government
of Nepal named the mountain Sagarmatha, meaning "Goddess of the Sky".
The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High Asia, is
located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. On the right is
Ama Dablam.
C. Khumjung and Kunde:
Left:
School children walk towards Khumjung, in Sagarmatha National Park,
Nepal, beneath Mount Everest (29,035 feet / 8850 meters elevation above
sea level), the highest mountain on Earth.
Below: Ama Dablam, a striking
mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal, was first climbed in
1961. The main peak is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, and the
lower western peak is 18,251 feet (or 5,563 meters). Ama Dablam means
"Mother and Pearl Necklace" (because the perennial hanging glacier is
thought of as the pearl). For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the
eastern sky for anyone trekking from Namche Bazaar towards Mount
Everest Base Camp.
Left: Khumjung village, Sagarmatha
National Park, Nepal: Ama Dablam, a mountain in the Himalaya range of
eastern Nepal, was first climbed in 1961. The main peak is 22,349 feet
(or 6,812 meters) tall, and the lower western peak is 18,251 feet (or
5,563 meters). Ama Dablam means "Mother and Pearl Necklace" (because
the perennial hanging glacier is thought of as the pearl).
Below: A Nepali boy chases a big yak,
in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal. Behind them, the peak of
Thamserku (right) rises to 21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation. Ama
Dablam (left) rises to 6,856 meters / 22,493 feet. Khumbu District,
Nepal.
Left: A child at Tsamkhang Monastery
(Tibetan Buddhist religion), in Khunde village (12,600 feet / 3840
meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.
Below: Young yaks, in Sagarmatha
National Park, Nepal. Behind them, the peak of Thamserku rises to
21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation, in the Khumbu District of Nepal.
Left: In Khumjung village (12,400
feet / 3780 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, eastern Nepal: Mani
stones are stone plates, rocks and/or pebbles inscribed, usually with
mantra or shtamangala, as a form of prayer in Tibetan Buddhism. The
repetition of the Tibetan phrase “Om Mani Padme Hum” invokes
compassion. Om Mani Padme Hum means “Hail to the jewel in the lotus”.
Out of respect, people should walk to the left or clockwise around Mani
Walls. Mani stones are placed in mounds or cairns along roadsides and
rivers as an offering to spirits of place (or genius loci).
Below: The villages of Kunde
(foreground) and Khumjung (background) are in Sagarmatha National Park,
Nepal. Behind them, the peak of Thamserku (right) rises to 21,680
feet / 6608 meters elevation. Ama Dablam (left) rises to 22,349 feet
(or 6,812 meters), in the Khumbu District of Nepal.
Left: The mountain peak of Thamserku
rises to 21,680 feet (6608 meters elevation), in the Khumbu District of
Nepal, Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya mountain chain of Asia.
Below: Drums hang from the ceiling at
Tsamkhang Monastery (which practices Tibetan Buddhist religion), in
Khunde village (12,600 feet / 3840 meters), in Sagarmatha National
Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal. (Upon request, I can show you
an external photo of this monastery, adorned with prayer flags.)
Left: The mountain peak of Thamserku
(21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation), in the Khumbu District of Nepal,
Sagarmatha National Park.
Below: Chortens, or stupas, are
adorned with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags and prayer wheels, at Khumjung village (12,400 feet / 3780
meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.
School children walk towards
Khumjung, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal, beneath Mount Everest
(29,035 feet / 8850 meters elevation above sea level), the highest
mountain on Earth. Mount Everest was first called Chomolungma or
Qomolangma ("Goddess Mother of the Earth" in Tibetan). In 1865, Andrew
Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India named the mountain for his
chief and predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest. In the 1960s, the
Government of Nepal named the mountain Sagarmatha, meaning "Goddess of
the Sky". The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High
Asia, is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China.
Danfe Pheasant:
Left:
I photographed this Danfe (or Danphe) Pheasant, Nepal's National Bird,
north of Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu
District of Nepal.
Partridges:
Below: Partridges: These
birds are at 13,000 feet in the Dudh Khoshi river valley in the
Himalaya mountains of Nepal. Partridges
are a gamebird in the
pheasant family Phasianidae of the order Galliformes, gallinaceous
birds.
Himalayan Tahr:
Left: The Himalayan tahr is an even-toed
ungulate, a near-true goat, commonly seen here between Phortse and
Pangboche in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu district of Nepal.
Below: Young Himalayan tahr follow their mother up a
cliff.
Left: Adult Himalayan tahr, female (above) and male (below), scale
steep cliffs between Phortse and
Pangboche in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu district of Nepal.
Below: The Himalayan tahr is an
even-toed ungulate, a near-true goat, commonly seen here between
Phortse and Pangboche in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu
district of Nepal. A big male is flanked by two adult females.
D. Tengboche Monastery:
Left:
Tengboche Monastery (12,690 feet elevation; as seen in 2007) was first built in 1918 by Tibetan
Buddhists, then rebuilt in 1934 and 1993 after earthquake & fire,
in Sagarmatha National Park,
Nepal. (Click here to see my 1981 image
of the former monastery, which
burned down in 1989.)
Below: Teahouse and stupa across from Tengboche Monastery.
Buddhism
in the Everest Area:
Also called a "lamasery," Tengboche monastery is
famed
worldwide as a center for Mahayana Buddhism, or Lamaism. Lamaism, found
mostly in Nepal, Tibet, and Japan, teaches compassion and universal
salvation. Tengboche Monastery (12,690 feet
elevation) was first built in 1918 by Tibetan Buddhists, then rebuilt
in 1934 and 1993 after earthquake & fire. (Click here to see my 1981 image of the former monastery,
which burned down in 1989.) Thyangboche is quite new compared with the
oldest structure in
Nepal, a stupa in Patan built by
Emperor Asoka in 250 BC.
Buddhism became firmly
established in Nepal's Khumbu District (home of the Sherpa people)
about 350 years ago by the power and influence of Lama
Sangwa Dorje. He established the oldest monastery in Khumbu at Pangboche as
well as many other small hermitages. Tengboche
Monastery (also spelled Thyangboche) is closely linked in
lineage & practices with Rongbuk Monastery
(also spelled Rongphuk, Rongphu, or Dzarongpu) on the Tibetan side of
Everest (in present day China). Sangwa Dorjes' fifth incarnation,
Ngawang Tenzin Norbu, founded the
monastery in Rongbuk on the North side of Everest and who also
encouraged the
founding of Tengboche Monastery.
Chatang Chotar (known as Lama Gulu) and the local Sherpa community
built Tengboche Monastery 1916-18, the first celibate monastery in
Khumbu
District. In the 1918 opening ceremonies, Tengboche monks first
performed
the Mani Rimdu dances, which
have gained increasing worldwide fame through today. In 1934 an
earthquake destroyed part of the Monastery, and its builder Lama Gulu
died a few days later. In 1989, a fire caused by an
electrical heater destroyed Tengboche again. The present monastery was
finished and reopened in 1993. As of 2007, 60 monks practice within the
Tengboche Monastic community.
Left:
Carved Buddha shrines decorate Tengboche Monastery (12,690 feet
elevation), which was first built in 1918 by Tibetan Buddhists, then
rebuilt in 1934 and 1993 after earthquake & fire. Sagarmatha
National Park, Nepal.
Below: 1993 wall paintings by
the famous Tibetan painter Tarke-la adorn the shrine room of the
rebuilt Tengboche Monastery, depicting the
Bodhisattva lives of the Buddha.
Left: A fallen swing bridge drags in
the Dudh Khoshi (or Kosi; “Milky River”; or Imja Khola), near Tengboche
Monastery, in the Khumbu District, Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal
Below: A new wooden bridge spans the
Dudh Khoshi (or Kosi; “Milky River”; or Imja Khola), near Tengboche
Monastery, in the Khumbu District, Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal
Left: Trekkers walk a stone road
through rhododendron forest, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal, near
Tengboche Monastery (12,690 feet elevation).
Below: This water powered
prayer wheel (called mani chos-'khor or Mani wheel by the Tibetans) is
a wheel on a spindle made from metal, wood, leather, or coarse cotton.
On the wheel are written or encapsulated prayers or mantras. According
to the Tibetan Buddhist belief, spinning such a wheel will have much
the same effect as orally reciting the prayers. A prayer wheel
symbolizes "turning the wheel of Dharma," which describes the way in
which the Buddha taught.
Forest, fog:
Left:
Papery red, orange and tan bark peels from tree trunks in a forest in
Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu District of Nepal. (horizonal
image)
Below: Papery red, orange and tan bark peels
from tree trunks in a forest in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu
District of Nepal. (vertical image)
Left: The mountain peak of Thamserku
(21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation) rises behind these leafless
trees, where I am standing across the Dudh Koshi (or Kosi, river)
valley from Phortse, in the Khumbu District of Nepal, Sagarmatha
National Park.
Below: This blue Gentian flower grows
in open alpine areas around Namche Bazaar, Sagarmatha National Park, in
the Khumbu District of Nepal.

Left: Trekkers hike in fog through rhododendron forest in Sagarmatha
National Park, in the Khumbu District of Nepal.
Below: Fog engulfs orange leaves and
lichen covered trees, in a forest in Sagarmatha National Park, in the
Khumbu District of Nepal.
Left: Himalaya fir trees grow in the
fog, in a forest in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu District of
Nepal.
E. Dingboche to Chhukhung:
Left: Trekkers hike towards the
villages of Pangboche and Dingboche, towards the mountain of Lhotse
(27,940 feet), the world's fourth highest peak, Nepal. The tremendous
south face of Lhotse rises 2 vertical miles in a steep slope averaging
a 55 degree angle.
Below: Ama Dablam is a beautiful
mountain, seen here near Pangboche, in the Himalaya range of eastern
Nepal. The main peak is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, first climbed in 1961. The lower western peak is 18,251 feet (or
5,563 meters). Ama Dablam means "Mother and Pearl Necklace" (because
the bulging hanging glacier is thought of as the pearl). For several
days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking towards
Everest Base Camp.

Left: Porters walk with a yak pack
train beneath the mountain of Lhotse (27,940 feet), the world's fourth
highest peak, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal. The tremendous south face of Lhotse rises
2 vertical miles in a steep slope averaging a 55 degree angle.
Below: This is the north side of Ama
Dablam, a beautiful mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal, in
the Khumbu District, photographed between Dingboche and Chhukhung, in
the Imja Khola river valley. Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961. The
main peak is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, and the lower western
peak is 18,251 feet (or 5,563 meters).
Left: Carol treks across a stream
towards Chhukhung, Nepal, beneath Lhotse (27,940 feet), the world's
fourth highest peak.
Below: A lenticular (lens) shaped
cloud stands over Lhotse (27,923 feet / 8511 meters, above sea level),
the world's fourth highest peak. The tremendous south face of Lhotse
rises 2 vertical miles in a steep slope averaging a 55 degree angle.
Over 50 million years, global tectonic forces drove India against Asia,
lifting these former sea bed layers to the top of the world. The
Himalaya are still rising 2 inches every year.
Left: Trekkers hike towards
Chhukhung, beneath Taboche Peak (20,880 feet / 6367 meters elevation),
in Nepal.
Below: Lhotse (27,923 feet / 8511 meters,
above sea level) is the world's fourth highest peak. The tremendous
south face of Lhotse rises 2 vertical miles in a steep slope averaging
a 55 degree angle. Over 50 million years, global tectonic forces drove
India against Asia,
lifting these former sea bed layers to the top of the world. The
Himalaya are still rising 2 inches every year.

Left: Over 50 million years, global tectonic forces drove India against
Asia, lifting these former sea bed layers to form the top of Lhotse,
Nepal. The Himalaya are still rising 2 inches every year. Lhotse (27,923 feet / 8511 meters, above
sea level) is the world's fourth highest peak.
Below: Yaks, and orange trekkers’
tents at Dingboche, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal. Fresh snow
dusts the mountains. In the background is a chorten, or stupa, a
Tibetan Buddhist monument.
Left: This Tibetan Buddhist mani
stone cairn is on the north side of Ama Dablam, a beautiful mountain in
the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal, in the Khumbu District. This was
photographed between Dingboche and Chhukhung, in the Imja Khola river
valley. Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961. The main peak is 22,349
feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, and the lower western peak is 18,251 feet
(or 5,563 meters).
Below: This is the north side of Ama
Dablam, a beautiful mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal, in
the Khumbu District. This was photographed at Chhukhung, in the Imja
Khola river valley. Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961. The main peak
is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, and the lower western peak is
18,251 feet (or 5,563 meters).
Carol admires the north face of Ama
Dablam (6856 meters / 22,495 feet elevation), at Chhukhung, in the
Khumbu District of Nepal.
F. Pangboche to Phortse:
Below: Fields and
buildings of Pangboche village (12,900 feet / 3930 meters), in
Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.


Left: A woman turns a Mani Thungkyur (a large prayer wheel, which may
contain religious books) while a girl looks out the door, at Pangboche
Gompa (temple), Nepal. Buddhism became firmly established in Nepal's
Khumbu District (home of the Sherpa people) about 350 years ago by the
power and influence of Lama Sangwa Dorje. He established the oldest
monastery in Khumbu at Pangboche (plus many other small hermitages).
Below: Pangboche Gompa (temple),
Nepal: Buddhism became firmly established in Nepal's Khumbu District
(home of the Sherpa people) about 350 years ago by the power and
influence of Lama Sangwa Dorje. He established the oldest monastery in
Khumbu at Pangboche (plus many other small hermitages).
Left: Pangboche Gompa (temple),
Nepal: Buddhism became firmly established in Nepal's Khumbu District
(home of the Sherpa people) about 350 years ago by the power and
influence of Lama Sangwa Dorje. He established the oldest monastery in
Khumbu at Pangboche (plus many other small hermitages).
Below: A grid of Monks' supplies at
Pangboche Gompa (temple), Nepal.
Left: Trekkers walk a trail across a
steep hillside between Pangboche and Phortse, in Sagarmatha National
Park, Nepal.
Below: A bridge crosses the
foggy Imja Khola river valley, between Pangboche and Milinggo, in
Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.
Left: Using a custom rickshaw, sons
fulfill their mother’s dream to see Everest Base Camp, despite her
Multiple Sclerosis (MS). Near Pangboche, Sagarmatha National
Park, Nepal.
Below: Tibetan Buddhist mani stone
wall, and prayer flags, on the high point between Pangboche and
Phortse, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal. Lhotse (upper right, 27,923
feet / 8511 meters, above sea level) is the world's fourth highest
peak. The tremendous south face of Lhotse rises 2 vertical miles in a
steep slope averaging a 55 degree angle.
Left: A mani stone wall, Phortse
village, and the peak of Khumbila (or Khumbi Yul Lha; 18,900 feet / 5761 meters), in the
Himalaya of eastern Nepal. Because local Sherpa people traditionally
consider Khumbila to be a sacred warrior spirit and guardian of the
Khumbu District, Nepal has declared this mountain illegal to climb.
Below: Pots and pans (copper and
silver) stock a teahouse at Phortse, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.
Lukla-Everest-Gokyo Maps:
Copyright 2007
by Tom
Dempsey. Photographs or text may not be copied without permission.
NEPAL 3: Everest / Gokyo
area