NEPAL 3: Everest / Gokyo area 2007

Photographs and text Copyright 2007 by Tom Dempsey. Last updated March 5, 2010.  Buy any image.

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Gokyo Trek 14 days:  A. Lukla to Jorsale B. Namche Bazaar C. Khumjung & Kunde D. Tengboche Monastery E. Dingboche to Chhukhung F. Pangboche to Phortse G. Gokyo village & lakes H. Gokyo Ri
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Above: By day hiking up 2000 feet from Gokyo village to the peak of Gokyo Ri (17,575 feet / 5357 meters elevation), I acquired this spectacular panorama of mountains, glaciers and lakes, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Left of center in the background is Mount Everest, the highest peak on earth. At the base of Gokyo Ri is the Ngozumpa Glacier, the largest in Nepal, plus several Gokyo Lakes. (Panorama stitched from 5 images. On smaller monitors, scroll right to see the whole image.)

Summary of our Gokyo trek

To organize your complete land package in Nepal, I highly recommend my friend Ang Dendi Sherpa (email: angdendi@gmail.com), who runs HIMALAYAN WORLD ADVENTURE (P) LTD (link to his web site) based in Kathmandu. I traveled with Dendi in 1981 and 2007, and he visited us in Seattle in September 2008.
     We flew from Kathmandu to Lukla airport, and hiked for 14 days, walking up and down a total of 26,000 feet. We walked 2 days to Namche Bazaar, where we acclimatized for 2 nights. We next hiked to Tengboche Monastery, where fog obscured views. Compared to my 1981 trip, in 2007 I found better reforestation; ten times as many tourists and yak trains; a lot more comfortable teahouses; and better meal variety.We proceeded to Dingboche, our base for a spectacular day hike to Chhukhung (15,520 feet), on the north side of beautiful Ama Dablam mountain. From there we trekked back through Pangboche then up a different trail, to Phortse then on to Gokyo. The highlight was ascending to 17,580 feet elevation atop Gokyo Ri, for a breathtaking 360 degree mountain panorama, which included four of the world's highest peaks (Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu), plus the largest glacier in Nepal and the attractive blue-green lakes of Gokyo.
     The common cold virus gave most of us problems. We also coughed excessively due to dry high altitude air and dusty trails. We coughed worse on the higher altitude Gokyo trek, so bring plenty of good cough medicine. (A visit to the doctor at Kunde Hospital finally helped us suppress the cough at night with codeine, to help us sleep much better). At altitudes above 10,000 feet, I recommend wearing a scarf or neckerchief over your mouth to hydrate the air and filter dust. I recommend washing hands frequently using soap and water, or waterless hand sterilizer (such as Purell).
    Click here to read my 1981 account of trekking to the closer Everest view at Kala Patthar (alternatively spelled Kala Pattar or Patar), which is within 6 miles/10kilometers of the world's highest peak, in the Khumbu Glacier Valley, near Everest Base Camp.

Below, I start at our scenic high point (Gokyo, parts H and G); then I discuss Lukla to Chhukhung and the rest of the trek in normal sequential order:

H. Gokyo Ri:

Left: Mount Everest (center left; 29,035 feet / 8850 meters from 1999 GPS measurement), the highest mountain on Earth above sea level, has the older name of Chomolungma or Qomolangma ("Goddess Mother of the Earth" in Tibetan) or Sagarmatha (in Nepali). To the right are Lhotse and Makalu (both higher than 8000 meters). These colorful Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags invoke compassion.
    In 1865, Andrew Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India named the mountain for his chief and predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest. In the 1960s, the Government of Nepal named the mountain Sagarmatha, meaning "Goddess of the Sky". The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High Asia, is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China.

Below: View from Gokyo Ri: Mount Everest.


Left: This map of the Gokyo / Everest area shows our trekking route in eastern Nepal. (Click for more Nepal maps.)

Below: Carol and Leslie top out at 17,000 feet elevation, most of the way up Gokyo Ri, within view of Mount Everest (upper right, 29,035 feet ), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.


Left: Before dawn, we climb the side of Gokyo Ri for this view of Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal, in the Himalaya mountain range of Asia.

Below: Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.



Left: Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal, in the Himalaya mountain range of Asia.





In the image below:  Left to right are: Mount Everest (29,035 feet / 8850 meters), Nuptse, Lhotse, and Makalu (27,762; world's 5th highest; far right), as seen from Gokyo Ri.


Below: In this panorama from Gokyo Ri
(17,575 feet / 5357 meters elevation), you can see Mount Everest (center left), Lhotse, and Makalu. Look on the lateral moraine of the huge Ngozumpa Glacier and to the left of Third Gokyo Lake, and you will see the village of Gokyo (15,583 feet / 4750 meters), a small cluster of teahouses for trekkers and climbers. (Panorama stitched from 5 images. On smaller monitors, scroll right to see the whole image.)


Above: From Gokyo Ri, you can see four of the world's six highest peaks - Cho Oyu (far left), Mount Everest (center left), Lhotse, and Makalu (all over 8,000 meters elevation). At the base of Gokyo Ri, to the left of Third Gokyo Lake, you can see the village of Gokyo (15,583 feet / 4750 meters), a small cluster of teahouses for trekkers and climbers. (Panorama stitched from 8 images. On smaller monitors, scroll right to see the whole image.)

Left: From the peak of Gokyo Ri (17,580 feet), you can see prayer flags and Mount Everest.

Below: Our guide Chhatra stands on the peak of Gokyo Ri (17,580 feet) above
Ngozumpa Glacier, the largest glacier in Nepal. On the upper left is Mount Everest. On the right is the peak of Arakam Tse (21,000 feet) and Cholatse.


Left: This view looks northwest from Gokyo Ri (17,575 feet / 5357 meters above sea level), to a lower peak on a ridge continuous with Cho Oyu.

Below: Trekkers on the ridge of Gokyo Ri, looking north.


Left: Left to right are: Mount Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse, as seen from Gokyo Ri. Mount Everest (29,035 feet / 8850 meters elevation above sea level, from 1999 GPS measurement), the highest mountain on Earth, was first called Chomolungma or Qomolangma ("Goddess Mother of the Earth" in Tibetan). In 1865, Andrew Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India named the mountain for his chief and predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest. In the 1960s, the Government of Nepal named the mountain Sagarmatha, meaning "Goddess of the Sky". The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High Asia, is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China.

Below: Trekkers descend from Gokyo Ri to Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal. The lateral moraine of the huge Ngozumpa Glacier dams these Gokyo lakes.


Above: In this 360 degree panorama from Gokyo Ri (17,575 feet / 5357 meters elevation), you can see four of the world's six highest peaks - Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu (on far right, and shown again wrapping around on far left behind the cairn), all over 8,000 meters elevation. At center right, the nearby Pharilapche Peak (4 kilometers away) dominates the skyline above Gokyo Lakes. Strings of Tibetan Buddhist Prayer flags line the summit ridge of Gokyo Ri. Below are several Gokyo Lakes, and the rock-covered Ngozumpa Glacier, the largest glacier in Nepal. (Panorama stitched from 15 images. On smaller monitors, scroll right to see the whole image.)

G. Gokyo village and lakes:

Left: Trekkers tents at Gokyo village on Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.

Below: Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal. The lateral moraine (seen here as brown hills) of the Ngozumpa Glacier dams this lake.



Left: Porters carry heavy loads above Second Gokyo Lake (or Taboche Tsho 15,551 feet / 4740 meters), beneath the the peaks of Arakam Tse (far left; 21,000 feet) and Cholatse (middle left), in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal, on the trail down from Gokyo village.

Below: Trekkers hike beneath the icy peak of Arakam Tse (21,000 feet), a Himalayan Mountain near Gokyo, Nepal


Left: Third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.





Below: A tripod cairn of rocks at third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari, 15,584 feet / 4750 meters).


Left: Trekkers descend from Gokyo beneath the icy peak of Arakam Tse (21,000 feet), a Himalayan mountain near Gokyo, Nepal

Below: Ice and icicles on a side stream in the Dudh Koshi river valley (or Dudh Kosi) on the trail to Gokyo, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.


Left: A heavily loaded porter descends from Gokyo, along the Dudh Kosi (or Dudh Koshi, "milky river") in the Khumbu region of the Nepal Himalaya, in Sagarmatha National Park.

Below: Ice and icicles on a side stream in the Dudh Koshi river valley (or Dudh Kosi) on the trail to Gokyo, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.

A. Lukla to Jorsale:

Left: The peak of Thamserku (21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation above sea level) rises 13,000 vertical feet above the Dudh Khoshi (Imja Khola) river, near Benkar (8629 ft / 2630 m), in the Khumbu District of Nepal.

Below: Along Dudh Khoshi (Imja Khola) river, in the Everest Area of Nepal: Mani stones are stone plates, rocks and/or pebbles inscribed, usually with mantra or ashtamangala, as a form of prayer in Tibetan Buddhism. Out of respect, people should walk to the left or clockwise around Mani Walls. Mani stones are placed in mounds or cairns along roadsides and rivers as an offering to spirits of place (or genius loci).


Left: In the Everest Area of Nepal, Mani stones are stone plates, rocks and/or pebbles inscribed, usually with mantra or ashtamangala, as a form of prayer in Tibetan Buddhism. Out of respect, people should walk to the left or clockwise around Mani Walls. Mani stones are placed in mounds or cairns along roadsides and rivers as an offering to spirits of place (or genius loci).

Below: Sagarmatha National Park, in eastern Nepal: These four engraved stone copies of the Tibetan phrase “Om Mani Padme Hum” invoke compassion. Om Mani Padme Hum means “Hail to the jewel in the lotus”. Mani stones are placed in mounds or cairns along roadsides and rivers as an offering to spirits of place (or genius loci).


Left: This mani stone and artful gate with prayer wheels marks the entrance/exit to Sagarmatha National Park, between Monjo (Manjo) and Jorsale, along the Dudh Khoshi (or Kosi) river, in eastern Nepal.

Below: Tibetan Buddhist art and prayer wheels inside the monument for entrance/exit to Sagarmatha National Park, located between Monjo (Manjo) and Jorsale, along the Dudh Khoshi (or Kosi) river, in eastern Nepal.


Left: A prayer wheel (called mani chos-'khor or Mani wheel by the Tibetans) is a wheel on a spindle made from metal, wood, leather, or coarse cotton. On the wheel are written or encapsulated prayers or mantras. According to the Tibetan Buddhist belief, spinning such a wheel will have much the same effect as orally reciting the prayers. A prayer wheel symbolizes "turning the wheel of Dharma," which describes the way in which the Buddha taught.


Below: The Larja Bridge, a narrow metal swing bridge, is strung with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags, over the Dudh Koshi (or Kosi, river) below the town of Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.


Left: Tibetan Buddhist artwork seen along the trail to Mount Everest in Nepal.

Below: A Mani Thungkyur, a large prayer wheel, which contains religious books, seen along the trail from Lukla to Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.


Left: A red, white and blue colored door in a house in the Khumbu District, in Himalaya of eastern Nepal.

Below: A red and blue-green door in the Khumbu District, in Himalaya of eastern Nepal.


Left: The peak of Kusum Kanguru (20,889 feet / 6367 meters), seen from near Thado Khoshi Khola bridge, in Nepal


Below: Yaks carry loads beneath the peak of Kusum Kanguru (20,889 feet / 6367 meters), seen from Thado Khoshi Khola bridge, in Nepal


Left: A creek flows over eroded stone in Nepal.

Below: A line of trekkers and porters hike on a swing bridge near Lukla in Nepal.


Left: Porters, loaded with vegetables and supplies, rest their bamboo baskets on T-shaped walking sticks on the way to market in Namche Bazaar, Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.

Below: Porters with T-shaped walking sticks carry bamboo baskets loaded with vegetables and supplies up a steep trail, in Nepal.


Left: A loaded yak (actually a yak-cow hybrid) passes a horse, on a stone road in Nepal

Below: A child in the Khumbu District, in Himalaya of eastern Nepal.

B. Namche Bazaar:

Left: My 1981 image of the village of Namche Bazaar (11,220 feet elevation). The mountain of Kongde Ri (sometimes called Kwangde Ri; 20,320 feet elevation) is 4 kilometers to the west. 

Below:  As seen in 2007, the village of Namche Bazaar is much larger, 26 years later. I found the Namche Bazaar area to be much more covered by forest compared to 1981, thanks to tree planting efforts by the Himalayan Trust, which was founded by Sir Edmund Hillary.


Left: The town of Namche Bazaar  (or Nemche Bazaar or Namche Bazar) at 11,220 feet elevation, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu region of Nepal.

Below: Traders sell merchandise every day at the Tibetan Market in the town of Namche Bazaar (or Nemche Bazaar or Namche Bazar) ) at 11,220 feet elevation, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu region of Nepal.


Left: Trekker Carol dodges yaks in the town of Namche Bazaar (or Nemche Bazaar or Namche Bazar) at 11,220 feet elevation, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu region of Nepal.


Below: Yak bells for sale at Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.


Left: The Larja Bridge swings high over the Dudh Koshi (or Kosi, river), below the town of Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal










Below: A stupa, or Tibetan Buddhist monument, in the town of Namche Bazaar (or Nemche Bazaar or Namche Bazar) at 11,220 feet elevation, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu region of Nepal. On most every stupa (Buddhist shrine) in Nepal, giant Buddha Eyes (or Wisdom Eyes) stare from four sides of the upper cube. These four directions symbolize the omniscience (all-seeing) of a Buddha. The third eye (above and between the other two eyes) also symbolizes the all-seeing wisdom of the Buddha. The curled symbol (shaped like a question mark) in place of a nose is the Nepali character for the number 1, which symbolizes unity of all things.



Left: A porter carries a huge load of empty bottles over the Larja Bridge, a narrow metal swing bridge, strung with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags, over the Dudh Koshi (or Kosi, river) below the town of Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.







Below: Heavily loaded yaks cross the Larja Bridge, a narrow metal swing bridge which is strung with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags, below the town of Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.



Left: Nepalese people walk above the village of Namche Bazaar, about 4 kilometers from the snowy mountain of Kongde Ri (sometimes called Kwangde Ri; 20,320 feet elevation) in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.

Below: This mani stone wall and chorten, or stupa, are located above the village of Namche Bazaar, about 4 kilometers from the snowy mountain of Kongde Ri (sometimes called Kwangde Ri; 20,320 feet elevation) in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.


Mount Everest (upper left; 29,035 feet / 8850 meters elevation, based on a 1999 GPS measurement), the highest mountain on Earth, was first called Chomolungma or Qomolangma ("Goddess Mother of the Earth" in Tibetan). In 1865, Andrew Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India named the mountain for his chief and predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest. In the 1960s, the Government of Nepal named the mountain Sagarmatha, meaning "Goddess of the Sky". The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High Asia, is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. On the right is Ama Dablam.

C. Khumjung and Kunde:

Left: School children walk towards Khumjung, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal, beneath Mount Everest (29,035 feet / 8850 meters elevation above sea level), the highest mountain on Earth.





Below: Ama Dablam, a striking mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal, was first climbed in 1961. The main peak is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, and the lower western peak is 18,251 feet (or 5,563 meters). Ama Dablam means "Mother and Pearl Necklace" (because the perennial hanging glacier is thought of as the pearl). For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking from Namche Bazaar towards Mount Everest Base Camp.


Left: Khumjung village, Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal: Ama Dablam, a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal, was first climbed in 1961. The main peak is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, and the lower western peak is 18,251 feet (or 5,563 meters). Ama Dablam means "Mother and Pearl Necklace" (because the perennial hanging glacier is thought of as the pearl).

Below: A Nepali boy chases a big yak, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.  Behind them, the peak of Thamserku (right) rises to 21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation. Ama Dablam (left) rises to 6,856 meters / 22,493 feet. Khumbu District, Nepal. 


Left: A child at Tsamkhang Monastery (Tibetan Buddhist religion), in Khunde village (12,600 feet / 3840 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.

Below: Young yaks, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.  Behind them, the peak of Thamserku rises to 21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation, in the Khumbu District of Nepal.


Left: In Khumjung village (12,400 feet / 3780 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, eastern Nepal: Mani stones are stone plates, rocks and/or pebbles inscribed, usually with mantra or shtamangala, as a form of prayer in Tibetan Buddhism. The repetition of the Tibetan phrase “Om Mani Padme Hum” invokes compassion. Om Mani Padme Hum means “Hail to the jewel in the lotus”. Out of respect, people should walk to the left or clockwise around Mani Walls. Mani stones are placed in mounds or cairns along roadsides and rivers as an offering to spirits of place (or genius loci).






Below: The villages of Kunde (foreground) and Khumjung (background) are in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.  Behind them, the peak of Thamserku (right) rises to 21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation. Ama Dablam (left) rises to 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters), in the Khumbu District of Nepal. 



Left: The mountain peak of Thamserku rises to 21,680 feet (6608 meters elevation), in the Khumbu District of Nepal, Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya mountain chain of Asia.

Below: Drums hang from the ceiling at Tsamkhang Monastery (which practices Tibetan Buddhist religion), in Khunde village (12,600 feet / 3840 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal. (Upon request, I can show you an external photo of this monastery, adorned with prayer flags.)


Left: The mountain peak of Thamserku (21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation), in the Khumbu District of Nepal, Sagarmatha National Park.


Below: Chortens, or stupas, are adorned with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags and prayer wheels, at Khumjung village (12,400 feet / 3780 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal.




School children walk towards Khumjung, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal, beneath Mount Everest (29,035 feet / 8850 meters elevation above sea level), the highest mountain on Earth. Mount Everest was first called Chomolungma or Qomolangma ("Goddess Mother of the Earth" in Tibetan). In 1865, Andrew Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India named the mountain for his chief and predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest. In the 1960s, the Government of Nepal named the mountain Sagarmatha, meaning "Goddess of the Sky". The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High Asia, is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China.

Danfe Pheasant:

Left: I photographed this Danfe (or Danphe) Pheasant, Nepal's National Bird, north of Namche Bazaar, in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu District of Nepal.

Partridges:

Below:   Partridges: These birds are at 13,000 feet in the Dudh Khoshi river valley in the Himalaya mountains of Nepal. Partridges are a gamebird in the pheasant family Phasianidae of the order Galliformes, gallinaceous birds.

Himalayan Tahr:

Left: The Himalayan tahr is an even-toed ungulate, a near-true goat, commonly seen here between Phortse and Pangboche in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu district of Nepal.

Below: Young Himalayan tahr follow their mother up a cliff.



Left: Adult Himalayan tahr, female (above) and male (below), scale steep cliffs between Phortse and Pangboche in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu district of Nepal.














Below: The Himalayan tahr is an even-toed ungulate, a near-true goat, commonly seen here between Phortse and Pangboche in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu district of Nepal. A big male is flanked by two adult females.

D. Tengboche Monastery:

Left: Tengboche Monastery (12,690 feet elevation; as seen in 2007) was first built in 1918 by Tibetan Buddhists, then rebuilt in 1934 and 1993 after earthquake & fire, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal. (Click here to see my 1981 image of the former monastery, which burned down in 1989.)

Below: Teahouse and stupa across from
Tengboche Monastery.

Buddhism in the Everest Area:
Also called a "lamasery," Tengboche monastery is famed worldwide as a center for Mahayana Buddhism, or Lamaism. Lamaism, found mostly in Nepal, Tibet, and Japan, teaches compassion and universal salvation. Tengboche Monastery (12,690 feet elevation) was first built in 1918 by Tibetan Buddhists, then rebuilt in 1934 and 1993 after earthquake & fire. (Click here to see my 1981 image of the former monastery, which burned down in 1989.) Thyangboche is quite new compared with the oldest structure in Nepal, a stupa in Patan built by Emperor Asoka in 250 BC.
     Buddhism became firmly established in Nepal's Khumbu District (home of the Sherpa people) about 350 years ago by the power and influence of Lama Sangwa Dorje. He established the oldest monastery in Khumbu at Pangboche as well as many other small hermitages. Tengboche Monastery (also spelled Thyangboche) is closely linked in lineage & practices with Rongbuk Monastery (also spelled Rongphuk, Rongphu, or Dzarongpu) on the Tibetan side of Everest (in present day China). Sangwa Dorjes' fifth incarnation, Ngawang Tenzin Norbu, founded the monastery in Rongbuk on the North side of Everest and who also encouraged the founding of Tengboche Monastery. Chatang Chotar (known as Lama Gulu) and the local Sherpa community built Tengboche Monastery 1916-18, the first celibate monastery in Khumbu District. In the 1918 opening ceremonies, Tengboche monks first performed the Mani Rimdu dances, which have gained increasing worldwide fame through today. In 1934 an earthquake destroyed part of the Monastery, and its builder Lama Gulu died a few days later. In 1989, a fire caused by an electrical heater destroyed Tengboche again. The present monastery was finished and reopened in 1993. As of 2007, 60 monks practice within the Tengboche Monastic community.

Left: Carved Buddha shrines decorate Tengboche Monastery (12,690 feet elevation), which was first built in 1918 by Tibetan Buddhists, then rebuilt in 1934 and 1993 after earthquake & fire. Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.

Below: 1993 wall paintings by the famous Tibetan painter Tarke-la adorn the shrine room of the rebuilt Tengboche Monastery, depicting the Bodhisattva lives of the Buddha.


Left: A fallen swing bridge drags in the Dudh Khoshi (or Kosi; “Milky River”; or Imja Khola), near Tengboche Monastery, in the Khumbu District, Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal

Below: A new wooden bridge spans the Dudh Khoshi (or Kosi; “Milky River”; or Imja Khola), near Tengboche Monastery, in the Khumbu District, Sagarmatha National Park,  Nepal



Left: Trekkers walk a stone road through rhododendron forest, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal, near Tengboche Monastery (12,690 feet elevation).

Below: This water powered  prayer wheel (called mani chos-'khor or Mani wheel by the Tibetans) is a wheel on a spindle made from metal, wood, leather, or coarse cotton. On the wheel are written or encapsulated prayers or mantras. According to the Tibetan Buddhist belief, spinning such a wheel will have much the same effect as orally reciting the prayers. A prayer wheel symbolizes "turning the wheel of Dharma," which describes the way in which the Buddha taught.

Forest, fog:

Left: Papery red, orange and tan bark peels from tree trunks in a forest in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu District of Nepal. (horizonal image)

Below: Papery red, orange and tan bark peels from tree trunks in a forest in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu District of Nepal. (vertical image)


Left: The mountain peak of Thamserku (21,680 feet / 6608 meters elevation) rises behind these leafless trees, where I am standing across the Dudh Koshi (or Kosi, river) valley from Phortse, in the Khumbu District of Nepal, Sagarmatha National Park.

Below: This blue Gentian flower grows in open alpine areas around Namche Bazaar, Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu District of Nepal.


Left: Trekkers hike in fog through rhododendron forest in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu District of Nepal.


Below: Fog engulfs orange leaves and lichen covered trees, in a forest in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu District of Nepal.


Left: Himalaya fir trees grow in the fog, in a forest in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Khumbu District of Nepal.


E. Dingboche to Chhukhung:



Left: Trekkers hike towards the villages of Pangboche and Dingboche, towards the mountain of Lhotse (27,940 feet), the world's fourth highest peak, Nepal. The tremendous south face of Lhotse rises 2 vertical miles in a steep slope averaging a 55 degree angle.

Below: Ama Dablam is a beautiful mountain, seen here near Pangboche, in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal. The main peak is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, first climbed in 1961. The lower western peak is 18,251 feet (or 5,563 meters). Ama Dablam means "Mother and Pearl Necklace" (because the bulging hanging glacier is thought of as the pearl). For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking towards Everest Base Camp.

Left: Porters walk with a yak pack train beneath the mountain of Lhotse (27,940 feet), the world's fourth highest peak, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal. The tremendous south face of Lhotse rises 2 vertical miles in a steep slope averaging a 55 degree angle.

Below: This is the north side of Ama Dablam, a beautiful mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal, in the Khumbu District, photographed between Dingboche and Chhukhung, in the Imja Khola river valley. Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961. The main peak is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, and the lower western peak is 18,251 feet (or 5,563 meters).


Left: Carol treks across a stream towards Chhukhung, Nepal, beneath Lhotse (27,940 feet), the world's fourth highest peak.






Below: A lenticular (lens) shaped cloud stands over Lhotse (27,923 feet / 8511 meters, above sea level), the world's fourth highest peak. The tremendous south face of Lhotse rises 2 vertical miles in a steep slope averaging a 55 degree angle. Over 50 million years, global tectonic forces drove India against Asia, lifting these former sea bed layers to the top of the world. The Himalaya are still rising 2 inches every year.


Left: Trekkers hike towards Chhukhung, beneath Taboche Peak (20,880 feet / 6367 meters elevation), in Nepal.









Below: Lhotse (27,923 feet / 8511 meters, above sea level) is the world's fourth highest peak. The tremendous south face of Lhotse rises 2 vertical miles in a steep slope averaging a 55 degree angle. Over 50 million years, global tectonic forces drove India against Asia, lifting these former sea bed layers to the top of the world. The Himalaya are still rising 2 inches every year.


Left: Over 50 million years, global tectonic forces drove India against Asia, lifting these former sea bed layers to form the top of Lhotse, Nepal. The Himalaya are still rising 2 inches every year.
Lhotse (27,923 feet / 8511 meters, above sea level) is the world's fourth highest peak.

Below: Yaks, and orange trekkers’ tents at Dingboche, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal. Fresh snow dusts the mountains. In the background is a chorten, or stupa, a Tibetan Buddhist monument.


Left: This Tibetan Buddhist mani stone cairn is on the north side of Ama Dablam, a beautiful mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal, in the Khumbu District. This was photographed between Dingboche and Chhukhung, in the Imja Khola river valley. Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961. The main peak is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, and the lower western peak is 18,251 feet (or 5,563 meters).

Below: This is the north side of Ama Dablam, a beautiful mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal, in the Khumbu District. This was photographed at Chhukhung, in the Imja Khola river valley. Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961. The main peak is 22,349 feet (or 6,812 meters) tall, and the lower western peak is 18,251 feet (or 5,563 meters).


Carol admires the north face of Ama Dablam (6856 meters / 22,495 feet elevation), at Chhukhung, in the Khumbu District of Nepal.



F. Pangboche to Phortse:

    Below: Fields and buildings of Pangboche village (12,900 feet / 3930 meters), in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.


Left: A woman turns a Mani Thungkyur (a large prayer wheel, which may contain religious books) while a girl looks out the door, at Pangboche Gompa (temple), Nepal. Buddhism became firmly established in Nepal's Khumbu District (home of the Sherpa people) about 350 years ago by the power and influence of Lama Sangwa Dorje. He established the oldest monastery in Khumbu at Pangboche (plus many other small hermitages).





Below: Pangboche Gompa (temple), Nepal: Buddhism became firmly established in Nepal's Khumbu District (home of the Sherpa people) about 350 years ago by the power and influence of Lama Sangwa Dorje. He established the oldest monastery in Khumbu at Pangboche (plus many other small hermitages).


Left: Pangboche Gompa (temple), Nepal: Buddhism became firmly established in Nepal's Khumbu District (home of the Sherpa people) about 350 years ago by the power and influence of Lama Sangwa Dorje. He established the oldest monastery in Khumbu at Pangboche (plus many other small hermitages).

Below: A grid of Monks' supplies at Pangboche Gompa (temple), Nepal.


Left: Trekkers walk a trail across a steep hillside between Pangboche and Phortse, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.

Below: A bridge crosses the foggy Imja Khola river valley, between Pangboche and Milinggo, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.


Left: Using a custom rickshaw, sons fulfill their mother’s dream to see Everest Base Camp, despite her Multiple Sclerosis (MS).  Near Pangboche, Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.

Below: Tibetan Buddhist mani stone wall, and prayer flags, on the high point between Pangboche and Phortse, in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal. Lhotse (upper right, 27,923 feet / 8511 meters, above sea level) is the world's fourth highest peak. The tremendous south face of Lhotse rises 2 vertical miles in a steep slope averaging a 55 degree angle.


Left: A mani stone wall, Phortse village, and the peak of Khumbila (or Khumbi Yul Lha; 18,900 feet / 5761 meters), in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal. Because local Sherpa people traditionally consider Khumbila to be a sacred warrior spirit and guardian of the Khumbu District, Nepal has declared this mountain illegal to climb.






Below: Pots and pans (copper and silver) stock a teahouse at Phortse, in Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal.

Lukla-Everest-Gokyo Maps:




Copyright 2007 by Tom Dempsey. Photographs or text may not be copied without permission.

NEPAL 3: Everest / Gokyo area

Index to this page: Maps , birds , Tahr goat , forest , Buddhism ~ Show gallery of 185 images
Gokyo Trek 14 days:  A. Lukla to Jorsale B. Namche Bazaar C. Khumjung & Kunde D. Tengboche Monastery E. Dingboche to Chhukhung F. Pangboche to Phortse G. Gokyo village & lakes H. Gokyo Ri

    Nepal Index:

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