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ANTARCTICA

Index to this page: Global warming , penguins , seals , Vernadsky Base , Shackleton , Deception Island , Trip Maps
Photographs Copyright 2005 by Tom Dempsey.
I last updated this page on May 14, 2008.

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Related pages: Tom's Gallery of Antarctica images ~ Argentine Patagonia & Ushuaia ~ Chilean Patagonia

This page shows images from Tom & Carol's 12-day Cruise to Antarctica, February 9 through 20, 2005.

My wife, my father, a friend and I explored the frozen Antarctic Peninsula for 6 days as part of a 12-day round trip cruise from the port of Ushuaia, Argentina. To reach Antarctica, we cruised through the Beagle Channel and crossed the rough waters of the 400-mile-wide Drake Straight on the ship M/S Explorer, on an excellent value trip run by GAP Adventures of Canada.
     Two and a half years after our trip, the Explorer sank after hitting ice November 23, 2007, and Reuters News Pictures Service published three of my M/S Explorer images shown further below.
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Left
: Iceberg arch explored by Zodiac boat in Neko Harbor. [Published in Wilderness Travel 2009 Catalog of Adventures.]

    Below right: our tour guides in red jackets are last to reboard the ship after daily outings via Zodiac.
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Global Warming:

Since the industrial revolution, humans have burnt fossil fuels, deforested land, and grazed livestock so much that we have increased atmospheric carbon dioxide concentration by 35%. Most climate scientists now agree that human-caused carbon gas emissions are accelerating global warming, especially in the Northern Hemisphere and the Antarctic Peninsula. The Antarctic Peninsula is a relatively small but climatically important piece of the continent of Antarctica which juts into the westward path of the strongest and fastest of all ocean currents, the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC).
    An article in American Scientist Magazine July-August 2008 reports that "The average midwinter temperature here [at Palmer Station, on the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula] has increased by 6 degrees Celsius since 1950; this is the highest rate of warming anywhere on the planet, five times the global average....Whereas the continent proper has not warmed appreciably in the past century, there has been a 3.4 degree increase in the mean annual temperature along the peninsula....If the trend continues,...[after] the middle of this century... sea ice will not form in most years, leading to a regime change in the ecosystem....We sound an urgent call to mitigate all the factors under human control that are contributing to global climate change." The three scientists who wrote this speak with the authority of having "spent a collective total of 36 seasons at Palmer."
    In general, global warming is happening fastest north of the equator where most of the land mass is located. However, the air of the two hemispheres only takes a few years to mix, so the Southern Hemisphere and Antarctica should also warm.  The average temperature of the continent of Antarctica is predicted to rise by a small amount over the next 50 years. Two-thirds of the planet's freshwater is frozen in Antarctica. If global warming eventually starts melting the Antarctica ice shelves floating on sea ice, that won't raise worldwide sea levels on its own, but the increased flow rate of the land-based glaciers feeding the ice shelves would add to global sea-level rise.  Any increase in the rate of ice melting is expected to be at least partly offset by increased snowfall in Antarctica as a result of warming climate. However, the problem of global sea-level rise could be overshadowed by the problem of carbon-dioxide-induced acceleration of ocean acidity affecting oceans & fisheries -- nobody knows for sure.
    Humans have forced a grand warming experiment affecting all life on earth, with unknown consequences. We need to continue studying Earth's climate and ecosystems while accelerating political and economic forces to decrease greenhouse gas emissions.
    References: 1) National Geographic Magazine August 2007 & more; 2) American Scientist Magazine July-August 2008.
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Above: The small cruise ship Explorer in Antarctica in February 2005. Reuters News Pictures Service published this image in stories on the M/S Explorer, which sank in 2007:
Two and a half years after our successful trip, the Explorer, owned by Canadian travel company G.A.P. Adventures, took on water after hitting ice at 12:24 a.m. EST (0524 GMT) on Friday November 23, 2007. 154 passengers and crew climbed into lifeboats and drifted some six hours in calm waters. A Norwegian passenger boat picked them up and took them to Chile's Antarctic Eduardo Frei base. There they were fed, clothed, checked by a doctor, and later flown to Punta Arenas, Chile. The ship sank hours after the passengers and crew were evacuated. [Click here to see all my published images.]
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Above: Lemaire Channel (Kodak Gap) seen from the stern of the M/S Explorer.
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Above: Peaks along the Lemaire Channel.

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Mountains rise 3000 feet above Lemaire Channel on the Antarctic Peninsula.


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Above: You should normally not approach penguins closer than 15 feet, according to the Antarctic tourism rules. But if you lie down on the ground more than 15 feet away, the rules allow for curious Gentoo penguin chicks to approach you. Aicho Island, Antarctica.
Below: If you lie down, curious Gentoo chicks may climb onto you for warmth or curiosity.
Aicho Island, Antarctica.
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05ANT-10666-Chinstraps.jpg
Above: Chinstrap penguins on Aitcho Island.
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Left: Chinstrap penguin on Aitcho Island.


    Below right: a small ice arch erodes from an iceberg:
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05ANT-10885-Neko-Harbor.jpg
Above: Gentoo penguins amid icebergs at Neko Harbor, on the Antarctic continent, visited via the red and white ship M/S Explorer.
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Above: Tom & Carol at Neko Harbor on the continent of Antarctica.
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Above: double arch in a melting iceberg, viewed via Zodiac boat.

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Above: curvy striped iceberg.

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Above: T
his striped iceberg originally formed by horizontal layers of snow depositing and compressing into a glacier, which broke off a floating chunk into the ocean. Differential melting and wave erosion caused the iceberg to roll onto its side, flipping the horizontal layers into the vertical lines seen here.
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Above: Antarctic peaks and the ship's wake seen beyond the deck railing.

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Above: Crabeater seals (Lobodon carcinophaga), which primarily eat krill, rest on an ice floe in Antarctica. Ecotourists in a zodiac boat pass nearby.  Antarctica. [Published in Wilderness Travel Antarctica 2009-2010 Brochure.]

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Above: a seal rests on the ice.

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Above: Gentoo penguin colony on Cuverville Island, with icebergs & the ship M/S Explorer. Reuters News Pictures Service published this image in stories on the M/S Explorer, which sank in 2007 (see story above).

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Above: Cuverville Island hosts one of the largest Gentoo Penguin colonies on the Antarctic Peninsula.

05ANT-10791-Gentoo-penguin.jpgLeft
: Gentoo penguins have a distinctive white patch behind their eye.

    Below right: sea ice and an Antarctic island:
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Above: Holes melting in a warming iceberg overhang formed by the undercut of waves.

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Above: Cyan icicles drip from an iceberg
which was undercut by wave action.

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Above: Tabular icebergs dropped from glaciers in Antarctica.

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Above: A Zodiac circles an iceberg in Neko Harbor near the ship M/S Explorer. Reuters News Pictures Service published this image in stories on the M/S Explorer, which sank in 2007 (see story above).
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Above: Our Zodiac explores an iceberg.
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Above: A glacier on
Neko Harbor.

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Above: Ice arch splits from glacier.

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Above: A jumble of icebergs.

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Above: Pushing through the sea icepack in Antarctica. On this trip, the Explorer carried us as far south as 65º 41 minutes 67 seconds of latitude, before pack ice stopped us about 40 miles short of the Arctic Circle.

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Above: Mountains on the Antarctic Peninsula.

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Navigation instrument, and sea pack ice.

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Left: old boats from the whaling era.

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Above right: Old whaling shipwreck near glacier.


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Above: Vernadsky Station, now operated by Ukraine. The hole in Earth's ozone layer was first discovered here by British researchers.

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Left:  This replica of Shackleton's famous 23-foot lifeboat, the "James Caird" is temporarily on the dock at the port of Ushuaia.  In the James Caird lifeboat, Ernest
Shackleton and a few shipmates performed the remarkable feat of crossing over 800 miles of one of the most treacherous seas in the world, from Elephant Island to South Georgia Island.

Below:  Sailors from the wrecked ship Endurance launch the lifeboat "James Caird" from the shore of Elephant Island, April 24th, 1916. This photograph [free for public domain distribution] was captured by Frank Hurley during the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition and published in the United States in Ernest Shackleton's book, "South", in 1919.

JamesCaird.jpg

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Above: Whaling industry tanks & debris on volcanic Deception Island.

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Above: Exploring volcanic Deception Island.

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Above: Ash layers on Deception Island.

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Above: Eroded column of volcanic ash offshore of Deception Island.

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Above: Offloading a Zodiac boat at Deception Island from the ship M/S Explorer.

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Above: People board the Zodiac from the ship M/S Explorer.

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Above: A man watches Gentoo penguins walk to the ocean to retrieve food for themselves and their chicks. Offshore is anchored our ship, the M/S Explorer.

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Above: Gentoo penguins descend a hill on their frequent commute to feed at sea.

05ANT-20127-Gentoos.jpgLeft: Gentoo penguins are white on the front and black on their back.


05ANT-20116-Gentoos.jpg
Above: Gentoo penguins look towards the M/S Explorer in Antarctica.

Patagonia & Antarctica Trip Maps

How to plan your trip: Read our highly detailed Patagonia trip itinerary, 5 weeks including Antarctica. We traveled from February 3 to March 11, 2005: from Seattle to Buenos Aires, Patagonia (Argentina & Chile), and Antarctica.Map of the Americas, Patagonia trip

Left: As shown on this map, we flew from Seattle 7000 miles (through Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas) to Buenos Aires, taking 15 hours in the air. Argentina is +5 hours jet lag from Pacific Standard Time (on the West Coast, USA). In these three maps, flights are light-green, and ground transport is purple.

    Below right: This map summarizes our trip:  1. Buenos Aires; 2. Ushuaia; 3. Vernadsky Base (run by Ukraine), in Antarctica; 4. Torres del Paine NP, CHILE; and finally 5. Mount Fitz Roy, ARGENTINA.
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Below: We flew 1500 miles from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, Argentina, on Tierra del Fuego Island, where we cruised 12 days round trip through the Beagle Channel and across the rough 400-mile Drake Straight to explore the frozen Antarctic Peninsula. We then flew a short hop from Ushuaia to working-class Punta Arenas, Chile, and took vans and buses in Patagonia to visit the nice tourist town of Puerto Natales and the astounding scenery of Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. Then we bused into Argentina to see the bustling tourist town of El Calafate, spectacular Moreno Glacier, fun frontier village of El Chalten, and awesome Mount Fitz Roy. To return, we flew from El Calafate to Buenos Aires, then to Seattle. In these three maps, flights are light-green, and ground transport is purple.
05ARG-5map-PatagoniaRoute.jpg

Index to this Antarctica page: Global warming , penguins , seals , Vernadsky Base , Shackleton , Deception Island , Trip Maps

See also these related pages: Tom's Gallery of Antarctica images ~ Argentine Patagonia & Ushuaia ~ Chilean Patagonia


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