Check out Tom’s favorite Midwest USA photos and travel tips:
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Table of contents
- A. Illinois (IL): Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site, honored on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
- B. Indiana (IN): total solar eclipse of April 8th, 2024; Parke County, the “covered bridge capital of the world” (Burr Arch Truss, Mecca, Narrows, and Bridgeton Covered Bridges, plus Turkey Run State Park); beautiful Cataract Falls State Recreation Area; Indianapolis Zoo animals; Conner Prairie Interactive History Park.
- C. Michigan (MI): Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Munising Falls, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, Presque Isle River potholes, William Mitchell State Park, Cadillac.
- D. Minnesota (MN): fall colors.
- E. Missouri (MO): Gateway Arch in Jefferson National Expansion Memorial, St. Louis.
- F. Nebraska (NE): fabulous Carhenge ironically replicates England’s Stonehenge using vintage American cars on the High Plains! Other gems include: SAC & Aerospace Museum; International Quilt Museum; Chimney Rock NHS; Agate Fossil Beds NM; and Fort Robinson SP.
- G. Ohio (OH): Westcott House by the influential Frank Lloyd Wright; and beautiful ravine trails in Hocking Hills State Park.
- H. North Dakota (ND): Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit: badlands with fall colors.
- I. South Dakota (SD): The Mammoth Site of Hot Springs, Badlands National Park, bighorn sheep, Mount Rushmore National Memorial, Custer State Park and wildlife reserve.
A. Illinois
Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site
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Who knew that the largest prehistoric earthwork in the Americas is right across the Mississippi River from St Louis: Monks Mound, near Collinsville, Illinois. Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site preserves the largest prehistoric Native American city north of Mexico. Cahokia existed around 1050–1350 CE. The present park contains about 80 man-made earthen mounds, but at its apex around 1100 CE, Cahokia included about about 120 mounds and covered 6 square miles (16 km2) with a population briefly greater than contemporaneous London. Cahokia was the largest and most influential urban settlement of the Mississippian culture, which developed advanced societies across much of what is now the central and southeastern United States, beginning 1000+ years before European contact. Cahokia Mounds is one of 24 UNESCO World Heritage Sites within the United States.
Recommended guidebooks for Illinois
- Illinois Bucket List Adventure Guide: Explore 100 Offbeat Destinations You Must Visit! Paperback – October 16, 2021
- Lonely Planet Chicago 9 (Travel Guide) Paperback – Illustrated, 2020
B. Indiana (IN)
Favorite images from Indiana
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Search for the latest Indiana travel books at Amazon.com — Tom recommends:
- A Guide to Natural Areas of Northern Indiana: 125 Unique Places to Explore (Indiana Natural Science) Paperback – Illustrated, 2019
- Hiking Indiana: A Guide to the State’s Greatest Hiking Adventures (State Hiking Guides Series) Paperback – 2018
- The Complete Guide to Indiana State Parks Paperback – Illustrated, 2018
- Rail-Trails Illinois, Indiana, & Ohio: The definitive guide to the region’s top multiuse trails Paperback – May 16, 2017
IN: Indianapolis: Conner Prairie Interactive History Park
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Conner Prairie Interactive History Park provides family-friendly fun for all ages in Fishers, Indiana. Founded by pharmaceutical executive Eli Lilly in the 1930s, Conner Prairie living history museum now recreates life on the White River in Indiana in the 1800s and preserves the William Conner home (listed on the National Register of Historic Places).
IN: Parke County: Covered Bridges, history
Parke County, Indiana, is the “covered bridge capital of the world.” Covered Bridge photos include Bridgeton, Crooks, McAllister’s, Neet, Thorpe Ford, Roseville, Mecca, Narrows, and Cox Ford bridges. See the Case 1822 log cabin in Bridgeton Historic District, Parke County Courthouse in Rockville. We caught a striking orange sunset behind a silhouetted tree.
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IN: Parke County: Turkey Run State Park
I was fascinated by Turkey Run State Park in historic Parke County. Bear Hollow Canyon is surprisingly scenic and narrow, nearly like a slot. Rocky Hollow Falls Canyon Nature Preserve is a National Park Service Registered Natural Landmark. Fun trails include boardwalks, stairs and ladders. See Sugar Creek Suspension Bridge. Cox Ford Covered Bridge was built in 1913 over Sugar Creek. The historic Lusk Home was built in Federal and Greek Revival style starting in 1841.
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IN: Cataract Falls State Recreation Area
The attractive Cataract Falls State Recreation Area features Indiana’s largest-volume waterfall, located near Cloverdale (an hour southwest of Indianapolis). Bright autumn foliage colors glowed for Tom Dempsey’s photos below captured on October 21, 2015. Altogether, Cataract Falls drop a total of 86 feet including intermediate cascades. Mill Creek plunges 20 feet in the set of Upper Falls and a half a mile downstream the Lower Falls drops 18 feet. The park’s limestone outcroppings formed millions of years ago when the region was covered by a large shallow ocean. The 148-foot wooden Cataract Falls Covered Bridge was built in 1876 at the Upper Falls of Mill Creek (formerly known as Eel River) and was open to automobile traffic until 1988. The bridge now serves pedestrians and was extensively repaired starting in 2000. It is the only remaining covered bridge in Owen County.
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IN: Indianapolis Zoo; total solar eclipse of April 8th, 2024
I photographed the total solar eclipse of April 8th, 2024 from Indianapolis, including solar corona, flares, and the diamond ring effect.
The Indianapolis Zoo is well worth a visit — photos include:
- Inside the Dolphin Pavilion, admire these sea-going mammals from the intimate underwater viewing dome in the center of the main performance pool. The Atlantic Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops truncatus) is also known as the Common Bottlenose Dolphin.
- East African Crowned Crane (or Crested Crane, Balearica regulorum gibbericeps).
- Chilean flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis).
- Marabou Stork (Leptoptilos crumeniferus).
- Addra Gazelle (Nanger dama), the world’s rarest gazelle.
- White rhinoceros or square-lipped rhinoceros (Ceratotherium simum).
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C. Michigan (MI)
Photos from Michigan include: Presque Isle River potholes, cool geology along Lake Superior shoreline, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, Lake of the Clouds, birch bark patterns, fall foliage colors, Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore (Miners Castle, Sable Falls, Munising Falls, rounded pebbles), William Mitchell State Park, and Lake Mitchell, Cadillac.
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Recommended guidebooks for Michigan
- Michigan Off the Beaten Path®: Discover Your Fun, Thirteenth Edition (Off the Beaten Path Series) Paperback – June 15, 2021
- Moon Michigan: Lakeside Getaways, Scenic Drives, Outdoor Recreation (Travel Guide) Paperback – Illustrated, 2020
- Moon Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (Travel Guide) Paperback – 2018
D. Minnesota (MN)
Photos from Minnesota include: snow falling on late September fall foliage colors in Superior National Forest, Two Steps Falls, Baptism River, Tettegouche State Park, peeling tree bark pattern, water drops on maple leaves, Lake Superior, Temperance River State Park, and watermelon, squash, and pumpkin harvest at farmers’ markets.
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Recommended guidebooks for Minnesota
- Backroads & Byways of Minnesota Paperback – 2019
- Minnesota Day Trips by Theme (Day Trip Series) Paperback – 2016
- Hiking Minnesota: A Guide to the State’s Greatest Hiking Adventures (State Hiking Guides Series) Paperback – 2019
E. Missouri (MO)
Clad in stainless steel and built in the form of a weighted catenary arch, Gateway Arch is the world’s tallest arch (630 feet high), the tallest man-made monument in the Western Hemisphere and Missouri’s tallest accessible building. Built as a monument to the westward expansion of the United States, and officially dedicated to the American people, it is the centerpiece of the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial. The Arch was designed by Finnish-American architect Eero Saarinen in 1947. It was built 1963-1965 at the site of St. Louis’ founding on the west bank of the Mississippi River and opened to the public in 1967. (Although built to last for ages, it is eventually susceptible to a tornado impact which could rip off the upper two-thirds.)
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F. Nebraska (NE)
Carhenge, near Alliance
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The impressive artwork of Carhenge ironically replicates England’s Stonehenge using vintage American automobiles, near Alliance, in the High Plains of Nebraska. After studying Stonehenge in England, Jim Reinders recreated the physical size and placement of Stonehenge’s standing stones in summer 1987, helped by 35 family members. Reinders said, “It took a lot of blood, sweat, and beers.” Carhenge was built as a memorial to Reinders’ father. 39 automobiles were arranged in the same proportions as Stonehenge with the circle measuring a slightly smaller 96 feet (29m) in diameter. The heel stone is a 1962 Cadillac. All autos are covered with gray spray paint. Carhenge was gifted to the Citizens of Alliance in 2013. Additional sculptures have been erected in the Car Art Reserve, where Reinders’ “Ford Seasons” comprises four Fords, inspired by Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. I was very impressed in our overnight visit in 2020, staying in the adjacent campground.
After a family visit in Indiana in 2021, we pointed our RV back to Seattle. Bonus sights in Nebraska included the following:
Strategic Air Command & Aerospace Museum in Ashland, NE
Well worth a visit, the Strategic Air Command & Aerospace Museum’s ominous aircraft and missiles are a sobering reminder of the Cold War, when the SAC served from 1965–1992 as nuclear air defense. In 1992, SAC was disbanded and reorganized into other units.
Above: The Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird is a long-range, high-altitude strategic reconnaissance aircraft that was operated by both the United States Air Force (USAF) and NASA (from 1966-99). During aerial reconnaissance missions, the SR-71 could outrace threats using high speeds and altitudes (85,000 feet). As of 2021, the SR-71 continues to hold the official world record it set in 1976 for the fastest air-breathing manned aircraft: 2,190 miles per hour or Mach 3.3.
Below: A Vajen-Bader smoke helmet for firefighters. Its round eyes have mica for fireproof viewing and even wipers to clear condensation! Made in Indiana in the 1890s, the helmet let firemen carry their own oxygen supply in an attached compression tank and protected them from smoke and falling debris. The technology would later be applied to high-altitude flight.
International Quilt Museum, Lincoln, NE
Although the International Quilt Museum has the world’s largest publicly held quilt collection, our timing was off, arriving between shifting exhibits. In a later year we’ll return to this attractive building, operated by the University of Nebraska.
Chimney Rock National Historic Site, NE
Acclaimed in the mid-1800s diaries of pioneer emigrants, Chimney Rock is worth a stop. Its Museum concisely reveals the travails of westward prairie emigrants who passed this 325-foot-high natural rock landmark along the Oregon Trail, California Trail, and Mormon Trail. Modern travelers can see it along U.S. Route 26 and Nebraska Highway 92. At 4228 feet above sea level, the distinctive formation towers 480 feet above the adjacent North Platte River Valley. Its layers of volcanic ash and brule clay date to the Oligocene Age (34 million to 23 million years ago).
Below: Prairie emigrants used covered farm wagons like this (instead of heavy boat-shaped Conestoga wagons), displayed at Chimney Rock National Historic Site.
Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, NE
boasts the most well-preserved Miocene fossils in the world. Exhibits also elucidated local native American history and culture.
Below, a skeleton diorama of the Agate waterhole of 20 million years ago (Miocene epoch) shows two entelodont mammals and a small beardog scavenging a chalicothere carcass (related to horse and rhino). The entelodont (Dinohyus hollandi) was a hoofed mammal 6-8 feet tall at the shoulder, with powerful jaws and teeth for eating both carrion and plants. The smaller skeleton in the foreground is a beardog (Daphoenodon superbus, the most common carnivore at the Agate waterhole site), which preyed upon juvenile rhinos, camels, and oreodonts. Notice that someone with a sense of humor put a blue mask on the beardog during the pandemic! The chalicothere (Moropus elatus) was related to the horse and rhino, standing 6 feet tall at the shoulder and having 3-toed, claw-like hooves.
Fort Robinson State Park, NE
Continuing north towards Crawford on the edge of the High Plains, Fort Robinson State Park provides large campgrounds with attractive bluff scenery in the Pine Ridge region of northwest Nebraska (resembling the Black Hills 50 miles to the north). Fort Robinson was a US Army base (1874-1947) which played a major role in the Sioux Wars from 1876 to 1890.
Recommended Nebraska guidebooks
- Nebraska Off the Beaten Path®: Discover Your Fun (Off the Beaten Path Series) Paperback – 2018
- Nebraska Recreation Map (Benchmark Maps) Map – 2015
G. Ohio (OH)
- See: “OHIO: Hocking Hills & Westcott House” visited in April 2024 and June 2023
H. North Dakota (ND)
Badlands, Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit, in the Great Plains along Interstate 94 near Medora, North Dakota, USA. Add to your Cart for purchase using my Portfolio site.
Recommended guidebook for North & South Dakota
- The Dakotas Off the Beaten Path®: A Guide to Unique Places, Ninth Edition Paperback – May 1, 2015
I. South Dakota (SD)
images are from trips in 2021, 2020 and 2017.
Recommended guides for South Dakota
- Moon Mount Rushmore & the Black Hills: With the Badlands (Travel Guide) Paperback – Illustrated, 2019
- Black Hills North [Black Hills National Forest] (National Geographic Trails Illustrated Folded Map) – 2019
- Badlands National Park: South Dakota, USA Outdoor Recreation Folded Map (National Geographic Maps: Trails I) – 2019
SD: Badlands National Park
In this peacefully remote park, bighorn sheep grazed fearlessly along the roadside and dramatic sunset/sunrise colors lit the colorful cliffs sculpted from ancient sediments.
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SD: Custer State Park and wildlife area, Black Hills
South Dakota’s largest and first state park was named after Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer. Completed in 1922, the Needles Highway includes sharp turns, low tunnels and impressive granite spires along the northern 14 miles of South Dakota Highway 87 (SD 87). The road lies within Custer State Park, 30 miles south of Rapid City, in South Dakota. Needles Highway is part of the figure-eight route of Peter Norbeck National Scenic Byway. A magical sunrise warmed the freezing air over idyllic Sylvan Lake. Cathedral Spires Area is most impressive. A famous herd of 1500 bison freely roam the Park, as seen along Wildlife Loop Road.
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SD: Mount Rushmore National Memorial, Black Hills
Sculptor Gutzon Borglum designed and oversaw the Mount Rushmore project 1927–1941, with help from his son, Lincoln Borglum. Mount Rushmore features 60-foot sculptures of the heads of four United States presidents: George Washington (1732–1799), Thomas Jefferson (1743–1826), Theodore Roosevelt (1858–1919), and Abraham Lincoln (1809–1865).
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South Dakota historian Doane Robinson conceived the idea of carving the likenesses of famous people into the Black Hills in order to promote tourism. Robinson’s initial idea of sculpting the Needles was rejected by Gutzon Borglum due to poor granite quality and strong opposition from Native American groups. They settled on Mount Rushmore, and Borglum decided on the four presidents. Each president was originally to be depicted from head to waist, but lack of funding ended construction in late October 1941. Mount Rushmore is a batholith (massive intrusive igneous rock) rising to 5725 feet elevation in the Black Hills.
SD: Crazy Horse Memorial, Black Hills
The Crazy Horse Memorial is being carved into Thunderhead Mountain on private land in the Black Hills, between Custer and Hill City, 17 miles from Mount Rushmore, in Custer County, South Dakota. In progress since 1948, the sculpture is far from completion. It depicts the Oglala Lakota warrior, Crazy Horse, riding a horse and pointing into the distance. The memorial was commissioned by Henry Standing Bear, a Lakota elder, to be sculpted by Korczak Ziolkowski. It is operated by the nonprofit Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation. The sculpture is planned to be of record-setting size: 641 feet wide and 563 feet high. The head of Crazy Horse will be 87 feet high (whereas the heads of the four U.S. Presidents at Mount Rushmore are each 60 feet high).
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Crazy Horse (1840–1877) was a Native American war leader of the Oglala Lakota. He took up arms against the United States federal government to fight against encroachment by white American settlers on Indian territory. He earned great respect from both his enemies and his own people in several battles of the American Indian Wars on the northern Great Plains, including: the Fetterman massacre in 1866, in which he acted as a decoy, and the Battle of the Little Bighorn in 1876, in which he led a war party to victory. Four months after surrendering in 1877, Crazy Horse was fatally wounded by a bayonet-wielding military guard, while allegedly resisting imprisonment at Camp Robinson in present-day Nebraska. In 1982 he was honored by the U.S. Postal Service with a 13¢ Great Americans series postage stamp.
SD: Deadwood, Black Hills
In South Dakota, the casino tourist town of Deadwood was worth seeing for a few hours, including the Adams Museum.
After the discovery of large placer gold deposits in Deadwood Gulch in 1875, thousands of gold-seekers flocked to the new town of Deadwood from 1876 to 1879, leading to the (illegal) Black Hills Gold Rush, despite the land being owned by the Sioux. At its height, the city had a population of 25,000 and attracted larger-than-life Old West figures including Wyatt Earp, Calamity Jane, and Wild Bill Hickok (who was killed there). The entire city is now designated as a National Historic Landmark District, for its well-preserved Gold Rush-era architecture.
To best appreciate historic Deadwood in fascinating detail, we recommend watching the dramatic HBO television series “Deadwood” (Seasons 1, 2, 3 dated 2004-06). Wikipedia says the Deadwood TV series “received critical acclaim, particularly for Milch’s writing and McShane’s performance, and is regarded as one of the greatest television shows of all time. It also won eight Emmy Awards (in 28 nominations) and one Golden Globe.” We checked out the DVD free from Seattle Public Library (or one can see it on HBO or Amazon Prime for a price). The more recent 2019 movie “Deadwood” is a coda that isn’t as good as the 2004-06 TV series.
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SD: Spearfish Canyon, Black Hills NF
Walk the pleasant trail to Spearfish Falls for 1.5 miles round trip within Spearfish Canyon Nature Area, managed by South Dakota Game, Fish & Parks in the Black Hills.
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SD: The Mammoth Site, Hot Springs, South Dakota
Here is the largest collection of in-situ mammoth remains in the world. Although the Black Hills of South Dakota offer many other great sights, don’t miss this fascinating museum and active paleontological site. Sheltered under the Mammoth Site’s roof is an ongoing excavation of a prehistoric sinkhole filled with the remains of animals and plants preserved by entrapment and burial around 140,000 years ago, in the Late Pleistocene. Since mammoth bones were found here accidentally in 1974, the remains of 61 mammoths have been recovered (including 58 North American Columbian and 3 woolly mammoths as of 2021). The Pleistocene, often referred to as the Ice Age, is the geological epoch that lasted from about 2,580,000 to 11,700 years ago, spanning the earth’s most recent period of repeated glaciations. The most recent glaciation period reached peak conditions some 18,000 years ago before yielding to the interglacial Holocene epoch 11,700 years ago.
Above: “The Mammoth Site of Hot Springs” in the Black Hills.
Above: Sinbad is a life-sized replica skeleton of a Columbian mammoth, featured at The Mammoth Site.
Above: Skeleton of an extinct giant short-faced bear (Arctodus sumus), the largest land carnivore in North America during the Ice Age.
Above: A replica of Dima, a mummified baby woolly mammoth (Mammuthus primigenius) who died 41,000 years ago and was discovered in 1977 in Eastern Siberia. The skin color and hair presence on this replica was modified to match the original’s appearance at the time of discovery.
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Midwest USA guidebooks
Search by state for the latest Midwest USA travel books at Amazon.com: ILLINOIS, INDIANA, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEBRASKA, NORTH DAKOTA. Purchasing any number of items at Amazon links clicked here on PhotoSeek.com supports Tom’s photography.
- Moon Wisconsin: Lakeside Getaways, Scenic Drives, Outdoor Recreation (Travel Guide) Paperback – Illustrated, 2020
- Moon Route 66 Road Trip (Travel Guide) Paperback – October 19, 2021
- Midwest Birding Companion: Field Guide & Birding Journal (Complete Bird-Watching Guides) Flexibound – November 9, 2021
- 1491: New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus Paperback – 2006
- 1493: Uncovering the New World Columbus Created Paperback – 2012