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New Zealand: 1 ~ 2 ~ 3

Page 1: Overview & southern South Island

Index: Below are three pages of my favorite images from my four trips to New Zealand:
I last updated this page on May 21, 2008. Photographs Copyright 1981, 1992, 1998, 2007 by Tom Dempsey.  Buy a Custom Print. ~ Send comments to: Tom@photoseek.com

07NZ_2212_16pan_tors_tarns_sunrise.jpg
Above: A pretty sunrise illuminates the curious tors and tarns (crags and ponds) on Hump Ridge, Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand.

Below left: My brother Dave climbs Mt. Hart above MacKinnon Pass, above the Milford Track, in Fiordland National Park. Mount Balloon (6080 feet elevation) pierces the clouds.Mt. Balloon + MacKinnon Pass, Milford Track, New Zealand

New Zealand Overview:

New Zealand is one of my favorite countries to visit. Scenery in this South Pacific country varies dramatically in short distances, perfect for touring by car, bicycle or feet. New Zealand is bigger than the UK, smaller than Japan, and about the size of Colorado. Fully 30% of New Zealand is preserved in parkland, very attractive for wilderness lovers. 75% of New Zealand's plants are found nowhere else.
     I especially enjoy renting a car (or campervan), staying in comfortable motor camp cabins, and hiking (or "tramping") to mountain huts. Planes, buses, jet boats, & water taxis efficiently assist one-way hikes or tours. Most cities have an excellent "i-Site" or tourist office with free highway maps, pamphlets, lodging & campground directories, and free bookings.
    New Zealander culture is very friendly, neighborly and down-to-earth. Visiting here can be as comforting as "going home to Grandma" or as exciting as bungy jumping. New Zealanders, or Kiwis as they call themselves, speak English, so you can experience the culture more deeply than in a country where language is a barrier. Their soft accent is endearing, such as when they say "yis" for yes and raise the end of most "sintinces" (sentences) like a question, in a polite tone.
    Carol and I loved our 25-day honeymoon in January 1998 on the South Island. After 100 miles of hiking in varied wilderness scenery (with a hilly 16,000 feet of total elevation gain), we felt strong and invigorated. From February 12 to March 27, 2007, we returned for an equally enjoyable 6 weeks on both islands, tramping 175 miles. On an earlier trip in 1992, a friend and I drove for a pleasant two weeks on North Island, exploring the "Walkways" & staying in motor camp cabins. For my first trip overseas, in 1981 I "tramped" and bicycled for a memorable two months with family on the South Island, based at my parents sabbatical-year home in Christchurch.

Kea, alpine parrot of New ZealandLeft: The kea is an alpine parrot unique to New Zealand, commonly seen in the Southern Alps.

History & Economy:

According to some Māori mythology, Polynesian navigator Kupe discovered New Zealand around AD 925. Most Polynesians arrived in their waka (sea canoes) about ~1350 AD. They mainly settled North Island, because South Island was too cold. Over about 100 years, they hunted one of earth's largest known birds, the moa, to extinction, which also extinguished the world's largest eagle. The Polynesians in New Zealand were not known as Maoris until after the arrival of the Pakeha, people of European descent. British and Maori leaders signed the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, founding New Zealand along with Maori rights. In 1893, New Zealand became the world's first country to grant women the right to vote. New Zealand became independent from Britain in 1947.
     Currently 15% of the population call themselves Maori, a group which is experiencing a renaissance of new respect and improved land rights. Half of New Zealand has been domesticated with pasture & farmland. Sheep outnumber people by about fifteen to one, yet agriculture contributes only 17% of the economy. The nation is more urban than ever now, but Kiwis still love their parks and feel a strong connection with nature. New Zealand's 4 million people mostly work in service, tourism & manufacturing industries, and depend heavily upon exports (29% of Gross Domestic Product/GDP).

New Zealand Geology:

Geologists believe that New Zealand detached from the ancient southern continent of Gondwanaland 80 million years ago, isolating the evolution of many ancient plants and animals, most of which are found nowhere else. Thrust faulting, crustal shortening and vertical slips rapidly lift the Southern Alps up to 10 mm per year, about the same rate as heavy rainfall & erosion wears them down. Volcanoes have formed most of North Island's mountains.
     In 1990, UNESCO declared South West New Zealand to be the "Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Area" (which includes Westland National Park, Mount Cook National Park, Mount Aspiring National Park, and Fiordland National Park), and described it as follows: "This park offers a landscape shaped by successive glaciations into fjords, rocky coasts, towering cliffs, lakes and waterfalls. Two-thirds of the park is covered with southern beech and podocarps, some of which are over 800 years old. The kea, the only alpine parrot in the world, lives in the park, as does the rare and endangered takahe, a large flightless bird." The North Island's Tongariro National Park was also delcared a World Heritage Site for cultural and natural importance.
Below right: The Moeraki Boulders (click to see more), on the southeast coast of South Island.

General New Zealand Trip Planning:07NZ_1190_Moeraki_Boulders.jpg

NZ-South-Island-map.jpg

South Island Tips:

I rate the following activities as *** must do, ** do, or * maybe do. I list these activities in order of a general loop starting at Christchurch, looping west, south, then ending in the north at Picton, where you can ferry to North Island
Below right: Milford Sound is a beautiful, deeply carved fiord, in Fiordland National Park. Geologically speaking, Milford should be called a fiord (or fjord), which is glacier-carved. A "sound" is water-carved.Milford Sound, Fiordland National Park

98NZ-P06-21-Kayak-Milford.jpg** Kayaking: 

Right image: Kayaking Milford Sound, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand. I shot this image with a point-and-shoot Pentax IQ Zoom 928 camera, which we accidently soaked with water while fighting the wind when paddling across Milford Sound. The camera zoom thrashed under its own power for several minutes before dying. After the trip I developed the water-damaged film, which was covered in purple water spots. I repaired the image in Adobe Photoshop to preserve this travel memory, and I was fortunate to get the image published [in Sierra Magazine, Sierra Club Outings May/June 2003].

*** Bicycling:

Southern South Island:

Below are my favorite images. For a more complete set from our 2007 trip, see my galleries: South Island-A , South Island-B , North Island-C  [ requires Adobe Flash ]

Fiordland National Park:

Fiordland Index: Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track , Dusky Sound Track , Milford Track , The Routeburn Track
Upon request I also have images of the Kepler Track and Lake Te Anau.

Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track:

The Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track is our favorite track in New Zealand because of its scenic variety and comfortable huts, with optional private rooms and hot showers.
07NZ_2176_79pan_Tors_tarns.jpg
Above: A pretty sunset illuminates the curious tors and tarns (crags and ponds) on Hump Ridge, Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand. (Panorama stitched from 4 images.)
07NZ_2212_16pan_tors_tarns_sunrise.jpg
Above: A pretty sunrise illuminates the curious tors and tarns (crags and ponds) on Hump Ridge, Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand. (Panorama stitched from 5 images.)
07NZC_181_Hump_Ridge_Track.jpg
Above: Tom explores the Hump Ridge Track.

Below: A morepork or ruru (small native owl, Latin name
Ninox novaeseelandiae), on the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand.
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07NZ_2155_Fiordland_NP_Lake_Poteriteri.jpg
Above: Lake Poteriteri, Fiordland National Park.

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Above: sunset on the Hump Ridge Track.
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Above: sunrise over Ta Waewae Bay, seen from the boardwalk viewpoint above Okaka Hut, Hump Ridge Track.
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Above: Historic Percy Burn Viaduct, built for logging in 1923 (36 meters high and 124 meters long), is now an attraction on the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand
07NZ_3001_Blowholes_Beach.jpg
Above: Blowholes Beach, on the Southern Ocean, along the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track, in Fiordland National Park, South Island.
07NZ_3007_New_Zealand_Fur_Seal.jpg
Above: New Zealand fur seal, at Blowholes Beach, on the Southern Ocean, on the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand

Dusky Sound Track:

The Dusky Sound Track is a long adventure of 8+ days starting with a boat ride across Lake Manapouri, then hiking through remote rain forest over Centre Pass to Dusky Sound and back. You can also access the route via a boat on Lake Hauroko.

81NZ-01-31-Beech-forest.jpgLeft: My brother Jim crosses a stream in a beech forest, on the remote Dusky Sound Track, Fiordland National Park.

Below right: Jim hikes in beech forest above
Tripod Hill towards Centre Pass, on the Dusky Sound Track, in Fiordland National Park.

Dusky Sound Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand

Milford Track:

The Milford Track is a fun 4-day hike, starting from a boat launch on Lake Te Anau, wandering through glaciated valleys and over an alpine pass to Milford Sound, an impressive glacier-carved fiord. You can optionally stay an extra night and tour Milford Sound via a one-day kayak trip **. Return to Te Anau via bus. (Kiwis spell the word "fiord", which is more commonly spelled "fjord" elsewhere, such as in Norway.)

New Zealand image from photoseek.com
Left: The glaciated cliffs above the Milford Track reflect in a pond near Hidden Lake, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand.

Below: My brother Dave climbs Mt. Hart above MacKinnon Pass, above the Milford Track, in Fiordland National Park. Mount Balloon (6080 feet elevation) pierces the clouds.
More Milford Track images are available upon request.
Mt. Balloon + MacKinnon Pass, Milford Track, New Zealand

Below right: Backpackers hike on the Milford Track below glaciated cliffs in Fiordland National Park.
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
Left: A hiker on Mackinnon Pass (3520 feet elevation) gazes at Mt. Balloon (6080 feet elevation), on the Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand.
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
Above right: Hikers admire the magnificent three-tier Sutherland Falls (1903 feet/580 meters), on the Milford Track, New Zealand.

81NZ-03-03-Mackinnon-Pass_Milford-Track.jpgLeft: Dave ascends Mount Hart, which is an unmarked side trip above the Milford Track. Mt. Balloon (6080 feet) pierces the rapidly incoming fog.
81NZ-03-10-Mackinnon_Pass_Milford_Track.jpg
Above right: From above MacKinnon Pass on the Milford Track, we see Mt. Balloon (6080 feet) piercing the clouds.
New Zealand image from photoseek.com

Left: Located on Milford Sound, Sandfly Point is where the boat picks up hikers finishing the Milford Track, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand.


Below right: Milford Sound is a beautiful, deeply carved fiord, in Fiordland National Park. Geologically speaking, Milford should be called a fiord (or fjord), which is glacier-carved. A "sound" is water-carved.Milford Sound, Fiordland National Park

The Routeburn Track:

The Routeburn Track crosses from Fiordland National Park over the alpine pass of Harris Saddle into Mount Aspiring National Park (hiked in either direction).

Beech tree + Lake Mackenzie on Routeburn TrackLeft: Beech tree and Lake Mackenzie, in Fiordland National Park, on the Routeburn Track.

Below right:  Waterfall in
Fiordland National Park on the Routeburn Track, South Island.
waterfall on Routeburn Track
07NZ_3058_Harris_Saddle.jpg
Above: A day shelter at Harris Saddle, on the Routeburn Track, which straddles Fiordland and Mount Aspiring National Parks, New Zealand. This view looks across the deep Hollyford Valley to peaks in Fiordland National Park.
07NZ_3078_79pan_Hollyford_Valley.jpg
Above: Peaks rise high above Hollyford Valley, on the Routeburn Track, in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand. (Panorama stitched from 2 images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to see entire image, 1150 pixels wide.)

New Zealand image from photoseek.com
Above: Peaks rise high above Hollyford Valley in Fiordland National Park, as seen from atop Conical Hill, on the Routeburn Track, New Zealand. (Panorama stitched from 14 images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to see entire image, 1800 pixels wide.)

Below: A glacier clad peak rises above the
Hollyford Valley in Fiordland National Park, as seen from atop Conical Hill, on the Routeburn Track, New Zealand.
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
Fiordland NP (above) Index: Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track , Dusky Sound Track , Milford Track , The Routeburn Track

Mount Aspiring National Park:

Mt. Aspiring Index: Routeburn (continued) , Rob Roy Valley , Siberia Valley & Crucible Lake

The Routeburn Track (continued from Fiordland National Park, above):

New Zealand image from photoseek.com


Left: Small ponds on Harris Saddle, which is a pass above Lake Harris on the Routeburn Track, in Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand.


Below: Trampers cross Harris Saddle above ponds and Lake Harris, beneath Mount Xenicus on the Routeburn Track.
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
07NZ_3043_44_Lake_Harris.jpg
Above: Lake Harris, and Mount Xenicus, on a sunny day in 2007 on the Routeburn Track, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand. (Panorama stitched from 2 images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to see entire image, 1148 pixels wide.)
Below: Lake Harris on a rainy day in 1998.
98NZ_11_21_Lake_Harris_mist.jpg
07NZ_3029_Routeburn_Falls.jpg
Left: Routeburn Falls (next to Routeburn Falls Hut), on the Routeburn Track, in Mount Aspiring National Park.

Below: Routeburn Falls time exposure.

07NZ_3185_Routeburn_Falls.jpg
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
Above: Lake Harris, and Mount Xenicus, on the Routeburn Track at 2:00pm, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand. (Panorama stitched from 5 images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to see entire image, 1200 pixels wide.)
Below: A bend in the trail on the Routeburn Track above Lake Harris at 5:00pm, beneath Mount Xenicus, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand. (Panorama stitched from 5 images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to see entire image, 1200 pixels wide.)
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
07NZ_3199_Routeburn_Track.jpg
Left: Carol crosses a swing bridge on the
Routeburn Track in fair weather in 2007.







Below right:
Carol crosses a swing bridge on rainy day in 1998, across the swollen Route Burn (river) on the Routeburn Track.
98NZ-12-12-Route-Burn-bridge.jpg
07NZ_3026_27pan_Routeburn_Flats.jpg
Above: A clear day in 2007 overlooking Routeburn Flats, on the Routeburn Track, in Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand.
Below: Routeburn Flats in the rain in 1998.

98NZ_12_03_Route_Burn_Flats.jpg
07NZC_195_Routeburn_Track.jpg
Above: Tom crosses a swing bridge on the Routeburn Track in Mount Aspiring National Park, in the Southern Alps, New Zealand.

Rob Roy Valley Track:

Below left: Matukituki Valley, Mt. Aspiring National Park: A long swing bridge starts the gorgeous Rob Roy Valley Track. [Published in November/December 2002 Sierra Magazine, Sierra Club Outings.]
Mt. Aspiring National Park: Matukituki Valley swing bridge.
Rob Roy Valley, New Zealand
Left: Tom & Carol Dempsey enjoy the waterfalls crashing from impressive hanging glaciers at Rob Roy Valley, Mt. Aspiring National Park.

Kea alpine parrot, New Zealand

Above: Carol smiles at a kea alpine parrot on the Rob Roy Track.


Below right: Cattle in lower Matukituki Valley.
Cattle in Matukituki Valley.
07NZ_1167_West_Matukituki_swing_bridge.jpgLeft: West Matukituki River swing bridge, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
07NZ_1108_Rob_Roy_Glacier.jpg
Above right: Rob Roy Valley, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
07NZ_1104_Kea_parrot.jpg
Above: Kea, alpine parrot, in Rob Roy Valley, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
07NZ_1115_Rob_Roy_Glacier.jpg
Above: Rob Roy Valley, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
07NZ_1119_Rob_Roy_Valley.jpg
Above: Rob Roy Valley, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand

Siberia Valley & Crucible Lake (on the Wilkin - Young Circuit):

07NZC_067_flightsee_alps.jpg
Above: Refueling the small plane before flying over the Southern Alps, New Zealand.
07NZ_0191_Mt_Alba_2360m.jpg
Above: Mount Alba, 2360 meters elevation, Southern Alps, New Zealand
07NZ_0196_Mt_Alba_2360m.jpg
Above: Mount Alba (2360 meters elevation) rises 1188 meters or 3900 feet above the ice-dotted Crucible Lake, in the Southern Alps, New Zealand
07NZ_1002_6pan_Crucible_Lake.jpg
Above: Hikers are rewarded with a spectacular ice bowl at Crucible Lake (1172 meters / 3844 feet elevation). Crucible Lake still floats big ice bergs in late summer, in Mount Aspiring National Park, South Island, New Zealand. Hiking to Crucible Lake takes at least 8 hours round trip (10 hours with my photography), from Siberia Hut, on a very steep and rooty trail (2300 feet or 700 meters vertical gain).
07NZ_0219_flightsee_alps.jpg
Above: Our small plane descends into Siberia Valley for this aerial view in Mount Aspiring National Park, in the Southern Alps, New Zealand
07NZ_0237_Siberia_Valley.jpg
Above: Crossing Siberia Stream, in Siberia Valley, in Mount Aspiring National Park, in the Southern Alps, New Zealand
07NZ_0247_Crucible_Stream.jpg
Above: Crucible Stream Valley, South Island, New Zealand
07NZ_0253_Ranunculus_lyallii_Buttercup_Mount_Cook_Lily.jpg
Above: Ranunculus lyallii, also known as the Mount Cook Lily, is the most beautiful flower in the Buttercup family. I photographed these beauties in the alpine zone at about 3500 feet elevation, a short distance below Crucible Lake.

07NZ_1043_Siberia_Valley.jpg
Above: Siberia Stream, in Mount Aspiring National Park, in the Southern Alps, New Zealand
07NZ_1053_Wilkin_River_jet_boat.jpg
Above: To save a river crossing and a full day of walking, we hired a jet boat to ferry us out on the Wilkin River. This area is part of the Wilkin-Young River Circuit in Mount Aspiring National Park, in the Southern Alps, New Zealand.

Mt. Aspiring NP (above) Index: Routeburn (continued) , Rob Roy Valley , Siberia Valley & Crucible Lake

Southeast Coast of South Island:

07NZ_1186_Oamaru.jpg
Above: Sailboats are anchored here in the harbor (or harbour) of Oamaru, New Zealand.
07NZ_1181_Takiroa_Maori_Rock_Art.jpg
Above: Takiroa Maori Rock Art, near Duntroon, in the Waitaki Valley, north Otago, South Island.
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
Left: Old weathered blue painted door at Clyde, New Zealand.

Below: Hinge on a
peeling blue painted door at Clyde, New Zealand.
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
New Zealand image from photoseek.com
Left: In a building dating from 1900, a broken wall hole reveals the green leaves of a tree outside, in historic Old Cromwell, South Island, New Zealand






Below: Old weathered wood door with red orange frame and arched window top, in a stone wall, at Clyde, South Island, New Zealand.
New Zealand image from photoseek.com

Moeraki Boulders:

07NZ_1257_Moeraki_Boulders.jpg
These calcite concretions formed about 65 million years ago beneath sea sediments, over a period of about 4 million years.
07NZ_1217_Moeraki_Boulders.jpg
Above: A photographer is born.
07NZ_2002_Moeraki_Boulders.jpg
A boulder erodes from a beach bluff.

07NZ_1198_Moeraki_Boulders.jpg
07NZ_1237_Moeraki_Boulders.jpg
07NZ_2006_Moeraki_Boulders.jpg

The Catlins:

Index to the Catlins: Purakaunui Falls , Nugget Point , Cathedral Caves
07NZ_2088_beach_Florence_Hill_Lookout.jpg
Above: Florence Hill Lookout in the Catlins district.

Purakaunui Falls:

07NZ_2042_Purakaunui_Falls.jpg
Above: side view of Purakaunui Falls, in the Catlins District, New Zealand.
Below: time exposure of
Purakaunui Falls, in the Catlins District, New Zealand.
07NZ_2061_62pan_Purakaunui_Falls.jpg

Nugget Point:

Below: A lighthouse and sea stacks make attractive scenery at Nugget Point, the Catlins, New Zealand:
07NZ_2082_Nugget_Point.jpg
Below: Sea stacks and a rock arch make a pretty sight at Nugget Point, the Catlins, New Zealand:
07NZ_2080_Nugget_Point.jpg

Cathedral Caves:

07NZ_2090_Cathedral_Caves.jpg
Above: People explore the impressive wave-cut Cathedral Caves, on the coast of the Catlins.
Below: Ghostly figures leave shadows in
Cathedral Caves, in the Catlins. Two separate caves cut into the rock and meet inside the cliff, forming a walk-through V shape.
07NZ_2092_Cathedral_Caves.jpg
Index to the Catlins (above): Purakaunui Falls , Nugget Point , Cathedral Caves

This page shows only highlights. For a more complete set of images, click here to see our 2007 New Zealand trip in three galleries:

  • South Island-A (108 images): West Coast, Fox Glacier, Mount Aspiring NP, Fiordland NP, robin birds, Moeraki Boulders, and the Catlins (108 images).
  • South Island-B (59 images): Mount Cook NP, Abel Tasman NP, Nydia Track, Queen Charlotte Track, ferry (59 images).
  • North Island-C (81 images): Taranaki / Mount Egmont NP, Tongariro NP, Lake Waikaremoana, Te Urewera NP, Rotorua hot springs & Maori culture (81 images).
  • If the gallery doesn't display, please download Adobe Flash for your browser (or press CTRL+R to refresh).

New Zealand: 1 ~ 2 ~ 3

Page 1: Overview & southern South Island

Index: Below are three pages of my favorite images from my four trips to New Zealand:
Photographs Copyright 1981, 1992, 1998, 2007 by Tom Dempsey.  Buy a Custom Print. ~ Send comments to: Tom@photoseek.com

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