For travellers, I suggest a camera which is compact, lightweight, high-quality and digital (not film). I have researched far and wide, and share my latest “Table of Best Travel Cameras” below. From these I picked my own equipment to photograph my portfolio shown on photoseek.com.

Best camera reviewers

• Table of Best Travel Cameras lists the best travel cameras (with detailed specifications), according to my research.
• dpreview.com [external link] is my favorite camera review site. Camera features are described in excruciating detail and compared to selected contemporary cameras. For the best summary, read the "Conclusion" on the last page of the Review for each camera, and look for a "Highly Recommended" rating.
• imaging-resource.com [external link] conveniently compares image quality of two cameras side by side, using 100% pixel view of identical images, one of the best ways to distinguish between cameras. All camera features are described.
• steves-digicams.com [external link] lists "best cameras" by type. All camera features are described.
• dcresource.com  [external link] compares competing cameras by battery life, camera bulk/volume, and weight. All camera features are described.
• Consumer Reports (CR) magazine [external link] gives concise, well organized reviews of consumer digital cameras, from compact to SLR. For example, in the July 2007 issue, the camera tables list relative ratings for the most important camera features: "Picture Quality", battery life, shutter lag, next shot delay, and price. The tables list which cameras support the following often-desireable features: image stabilization; zoom starting at 28mm wide angle; manual controls; and AA size batteries. They update their camera reviews at least once a year. Your local library may carry this respected independent magazine which accepts no advertising.

Best Camera Sellers

• www.Pricegrabber.com [external link] =  compares camera & accessory prices across dozens of competing USA companies, along with customer service rankings and user reviews. Describes basic features. This is the best way to comparison shop. I only shop at companies ranked here with a "Seller Rating" of 4 to 5 stars and at least 400 votes. The best prices for accessories (including the cost of shipping) are usually at a company different than the camera seller.
  
• B&H Photo [external link] = offers excellent camera prices and reliable service, with a huge inventory, with no sales tax if you live outside of New York state.
  
• www.butterflyphoto.com [external link] = a smaller company which offers excellent camera prices and reliable service, with no sales tax if you live outside of New Jersey.
• See my Shopping Examples below.
  

How to Prioritize Camera Features

No single camera is right for everyone. If you primarily photograph children, pets, people, action, sports or indoors, then look for a camera with fast response (low shutter lag). SLR cameras are quickest on the draw, but are usually large, heavy, and harder to carry everywhere. Compact cameras are easier to carry, but focus more slowly, and record "noisier" images than DSLRs in low light. If you want bigger prints, look for a bigger camera with a good combination of lens, sensor, and processing that captures the best quality and least "noise". Look for a camera small enough that you will carry it everywhere to get the shots you want.
     As an example, here are my priorities:   Since I mainly shoot landscapes and subjects which don't move fast, avoiding shutter lag is much less important to me than the following: I value excellent image quality in balance with a small and lightweight camera body, with a 7x or larger zoom lens starting at 28mm, at a reasonable price. Next most important to me is good performance in low light, gained through image stabilization, and low noise at ISO 400 and higher. Over the years, I have gone from an SLR film camera, to two compact digital cameras, and now to a lightweight DSLR with image-stabilized 11x zoom.

When shopping for a camera, consider the following features:

• Newest cameras usually have the best technology: For an example, Canon's DIGIC I processor in the 2003 Powershot G5 captured images better than my Nikon LS-2000 scanner digitized my 35mm Fuji Velvia film. Later, DIGIC II cameras captured images much faster with less noise, probably better than Panasonic's Venus III engine. Then in 2006, Canon's DIGIC III bested the others. In 2006, the best sensor chip for its size was the 1/1.6" Fujifilm SuperCCD found in the excellent compact Fujifilm Finepix S6000fd camera.
  
• Computer savvy not required: Comfort with computers is no longer a barrier to owning a digital camera, since many home printers support printing directly from the camera or memory card. Print shops everywhere will print from any memory card. (However, choosy photographers like me prefer to adjust each image before printing.) Sharing images is easier than ever with LCD playback on the back of the camera. Or simply connect a wire from your camera to your TV (S-video cable) or PC (USB cable). If you do know computers, digital photography offers astounding possibilities for storage, editing and presentation.
• Camera size & type: See "compact" versus "SLR". Look for a high-quality camera that is small enough that you are willing carry it everywhere.
  
• Low shutter lag: For high focus speed, look for 0.3 seconds or less from button-press to image-capture; best in the newest cameras, even in subcompacts. An SLR is best if you need instant click, but the best compact cameras in 2007 have mostly eliminated shutter lag. Also, read here how to get instant click on any camera.
  
• Resolution in megapixels: (such as 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, or 12) roughly determines how large you can print and how much you can crop (or digital-zoom), when comparing within a given quality class of cameras. Beware that recent "megapixel marketing" of compact cameras has put memory-hungry 10 megapixel sensors into small cameras in which a 6 megapixel sensor would make the same size print. To find the best optimized cameras, read reviews and see my Table of Best Travel Cameras below.
  
• Lens:                   (Note:  below I express lens millimeter "mm" sizes in their equivalent to traditional 35mm-film camera lenses.)
• Good optical zoom range & quality: Look for a very useful 28 mm wide angle lens (equivalent in terms of a 35mm-film camera), and at least 7x "optical zoom" telephoto (28mm to 200+ mm), with proven high-quality images. However, if you accept 35mm as the widest, you increase your number of camera choices.  Shop for "optical zoom", not "digital zoom".
  
• Macro ability = a surprisingly good close-focusing ability is built into most compact digital cameras. Look for the ability to focus as close as possible or focus on the smallest area, without distortion. SLR cameras require a separate macro lens or diopter filter for the best close-ups (adding extra bulk & inconvenience to your system, but rewarding you with excellent quality).
• Optical image stabilization lets you shoot sharp telephoto shots in significantly lower light, by 2 or 3 f/stops, decreasing your need for a tripod. Optical stabilization is also known as "Anti-Shake", or "IS" for Canon, or "VR" for Nikkor/Nikon. Optical image stabilization is most useful if the lens zooms longer than 120mm and you don't use a tripod. As of 2007, optical image stabilization has become a must-have feature on good compact travel cameras with big zoom ranges.
  
• DSLRs can also have image stabilization:
  
• For Nikon DSLRs only, the following 27-300 mm equivalent zoom lens gives an unprecedented 4 stops of Vibration Reduction:  f/3.5-5.6G Nikkor AF-S DX VR 18-200mm IF-ED lens (20 ounces, plus camera body); 11x zoom. It focuses to 18 inches / 0.5 meters throughout, giving good closeups of subjects measuring 67 x 100 mm at maximum telephoto. Mount this lens like I do on the Nikon D40X (18 ounces; released 2007), the lightest and smallest SLR camera, great for travel. Reviewers say this Nikkor 18-200mm VR is one of the best lenses ever invented for travel: 1) Ken Rockwell's review, 2) Thom Hogan's review, 3) Cameralabs.
• You could shave 6 ounces and hundreds of dollars by replacing the Nikkor lens with the Sigma 18-200 mm f/3.5-6.3 DC (manufacturer link) (new in 2005) which has poorer optics and no image stabilization. The resulting Nikon D40X camera+lens would be only 32 ounces. But Cameralabs says the Nikkor captures noticeably better quality than the competing Sigma and Tamron 18-200mm lenses.
• For most other DSLRs: Sigma 18-200 mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS (manufacturer link) lens with Optical Stabilization ("OS" new in August 2007) weighs 21.5 ounces (610 grams); has a diameter of 3.1" (79mm ), length of 3.9" (100mm); 11x zoom, and focuses as close as 45cm (17.7") throughout, 1:3.9 magnification. Zoom lock switch prevents lens creep. (Lens creep is a problem on the Nikkor 18-200mm VR). Check reviews before buying. Nikkor is probably a better value. You could mount this Sigma lens on a the lightweight 20-ounce Canon Digital Rebel XTi / EOS 400D (which has a 1.6x lens zoom multiplier, due to sensor smaller than 35mm, which gives this Sigma lens a 29-320 mm equivalent). This Canon XTi camera + Sigma 18-200mm OS lens weighs 41.5 ounces. Or mount this Sigma 18-200mm OS lens on the lighter Nikon D40X, or other SLRs.
• For Canon DSLRs: many people like the workhorse Canon EF 75-300 mm f/4-5.6 IS USM lens (5.4 inches/137 mm long; 22.5 ounces / 650grams; close focus 4.9 feet/1.5 meters).
  
• Sony "Alpha" A100 introduces the first anti-shake sensor in an SLR, which works around the expense of anti-shake lenses. However, Nikon D40X and Canon XTi capture less noise at high ISO, thus eliminating the advantage of Sony A100's anti-shake sensor.
• DSLR advice:
  
• For SLR cameras, I suggest mounting a good "all-in-one" 18-200mm Nikkor VR or Sigma OS (about 27-300mm equivalent) for travel. Because excellent quality "mega zooms" are now available, you no longer need to swap lenses (unless you are a professional photographer requiring the absolute best quality enlargements to poster size). If you travel with friends or family like I do, changing lenses can be slow and cumbersome. Lens swapping can hinder creativity for travelers on the go, and lets dust enter SLRs.
  
• To save weight on DSLRs: On a lightweight camera such as the Canon Rebel XTi DSLR, get Canon "EF-S" lenses which are specifically designed for the "APS-C" digital sensor size (educational link) (which is smaller than a 35mm film frame). Similarly for Nikkor/Nikon, use lightweight "DX" lenses. For Sigma, use their "DC" lenses.  [ Pre-digital lenses are heavy with enough glass to focus on a full 35mm-sized film frame. When used on digital SLR cameras, only this lens's center or "sweet spot" is used (which can have the advantage of eliminating edge distortions, if any). However, modern lens quality is generally excellent, and you can save a lot of weight by getting a lens optimized for the digital sensor size. ]
• High ISO can also "stabilize" images: The following non-SLR cameras can shoot well in lower light due to excellent noise-free performance up to ISO 400: Sony DSC R-1; and Fujifilm FinePix S9100, S9000 or S6000fd (but these cameras are still hindered by lack of image stabilization, when compared to competitors). Beware shooting at overly high ISO speeds, where contrast increases and random noise detracts from big prints. DSLR cameras can capture good images at 2 to 5 stops higher ISO than compact cameras.
• Battery life: Look for high number of shots per recharge (150 is okay; 250 is better; 400 is even better. Beware manufacturer's claims - only believe independent testing). dcresource.com often gives a battery life table comparing competing cameras.
• LCD: Look for large size: 2 inches is okay, but 2.5 inches or bigger is much better (especially for people over 40 years old or who can't see close objects well). 200,000+ pixels in the LCD will look sharp. Look for an LCD viewable in harsh sunlight and at extreme angles of view. An LCD with flip-out & swivel ability is great for overhead, low-to-the-ground macro, or people shots, with the camera held at arms length. You can prompt better smiles and reactions from human subjects without a camera in front of your face.
  
• Viewfinder: An Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) is superior to a rangefinder view, and shows the actual digital image obtained through-the lens, plus informative histogram and shot settings. An EVF lets you easily spot over- or under-exposed areas, white balance problems, and so forth. But many SLR users prefer the focus accuracy and extra detail seen non-digitally through an SLR lens. All digital camera users can simply check the LCD for image problems after shooting. I like both EVF and SLR viewfinders equally well.
• Dedicated buttons are better than menus for frequently used features such as exposure compensation, white balance and ISO. Avoid cameras requiring complicated menus to access common functions. Don't be distracted by cameras with more features if you will never use those features.
• Memory card type: Compactflash and Secure Digital (SD) are the most common standard formats for future compatibility with multiple devices. Compactflash currently offers the highest capacity, but SD HC now offers 4 gigabytes at a good price. Look for good reliability and long warranty, such as SanDisk Ultra II with lifetime warranty; or Lexar; or Panasonic.
• Water resistance: If you do water sports such as kayaking, rafting or even walking in the rain, I recommend using a water resistant camera. Or, a less expensive solution is a waterproof housing which lets you operate your camera buttons under water (available for many cameras, $150-$800).

Image Quality and Maximum Print Size A higher quality image can be printed bigger than a fuzzier one. The following online tools let you compare image quality between different cameras: Seeing is believing -- conveniently compare the image quality of two cameras side by side, using 100% pixel view, at www.imaging-resource.com Image quality at ISO 400 can push the limits of many small cameras, so I have used it as a comparison criteria in my Table of Best Travel Cameras, above. For example, based on review sites dpreview.com and imaging-resource.com, I rate the following travel cameras on ISO 400 quality, starting with best first, and worst last: Nikon D40X or Canon EOS 400D Rebel XTi SLR > Fujifilm FinePix S6000fd > Panasonic DMC-FZ50 > Canon Powershot G7 > Panasonic DMC-FZ8 > Canon Powershot A710 IS > Panasonic DMC-LX-2 > Canon Powershot SD700 IS > Canon Powershot Pro1 (which requires ISO 50 to best the G7).  Maximum print size: Image quality directly affects maximum print size. Improving image quality depends upon many factors, such as:  shooting with good focus; proper exposure; lower ISO settings to reduce noise; good lens quality; larger total sensor area; larger sensor receptor at each pixel; better sensor noise handling; better RAW optimization (in-camera JPEG conversion versus superior external RAW conversion), and so forth. Buying a camera with more megapixels is not the best way to maximize print size. Instead, pick a camera with a larger diameter lens and physically larger sensor which is better optimized than its competitors, as judged when 100% pixel views are compared (reviewer site), such as at ISO 400 or higher. Beware that exceeding about 6 to 8 megapixels in small cameras (subcompacts less than 10 ounces; as of 2007) usually does not help increase effective print size, due to limitations of lens & sensor. Maximum print size is subjective, depending upon viewing distance and standards. Compare only within a given standard or reviewer. Surprising billboard example:   A 20-foot-wide billboard produced from a good 3 megapixel camera can look great viewed from 40 feet away, but can look fuzzier when viewed closer. Different observers will judge the "fuzziness" differently, subjectively. A typical 3-megapixel image measures 2000 pixels wide x 1500 high. When you print the same image 8 inches wide (at 250 ppi / pixels per inch) and view it 16 inches away, it will look equally sharp as the more distantly viewed billboard. Stand 40 feet from the billboard and hold the print 16 inches from your eye, and they will line up perfectly. Both have the same viewing angle relative to your eye and both have 3 megapixels of information, so they will look equally sharp, theoretically. Maximum print size is unlimited for a good 3+ megapixel or larger camera, as long as you view the print at a distance of at least twice its longer dimension. But when viewed closer, at some point you can define a standard for maximum print size. This rule is subjective. An excellent 8 to 10 megapixel camera (circa 2007) can create printed images perceived as sharp when viewed at a distance equal to the print's longer dimension (or further away). For example, for most people, a 20x30 inch print from an 8-10 megapixel SLR camera looks sharp viewed at 30 inches. This rule is subjective. For best prints of up to 48 inches on an ink jet printer, resize the file's resolution in the range of 240 to 300 ppi (pixels per inch), at your desired length and width. Adobe Photoshop's "bicubic" resizing works great; or use Adobe Lightroom. If more than doubling a dimension, resize in steps, to avoid imperfections. For example, to increase an image from 16 inches to 48 inches high, resize height to 32 inches first, then resize again to 48. Maintain image proportion of height to width. After resizing, sharpen (or Unsharp mask) the image as the last step before printing. Clarification: Setting the file's resolution to 240 ppi is unrelated to setting the printer's dpi for laying down ink, which is a different topic -- for final prints, simply choose the printer's "Highest Quality" setting, which will automatically optimize the printer's dpi. The following subjective viewing distance formula for the human eye is for well-printed images, from any high quality camera of any megapixel size: Optimal viewing distance in inches ____ = 3500 divided by ( ____ optimal image file pixels per inch or ppi ) Example A: A 240 ppi print can look sharp when viewed at 15 inches or greater, which is about the closest that most people look at prints. (14.6 inches = 3500 / 240 ppi) Example B: The 10 megapixel Nikon D40X captures 3872 x 2592 pixels native size. Take the longer dimension of 3872 pixels, and divide by 240 ppi, which equals a 16 inch print, which should look sharp when viewed at 15 inches or further from your eye. Enlarging this image, doubling its long side to 32 inches, will look sharp when viewed at least 30 inches from your eye (twice as far away). This formula is subjective, meaning your judgment of image sharpness may differ from mine.