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BEST 2026 TRAVEL CAMERAS reviewed: midsize, pocketable, smartphone

Tom Dempsey recommends the following lightweight camera gear for on-the-go photographers:

PART A: best MIDSIZE TRAVEL CAMERA
■ 38.5 ounces for the
world’s best travel system (read Tom’s review): Sony A7CR camera at Amazon (2023, 18.2 oz) mounted with its sharpest travel lens, the 8x optical zoom Tamron 25-200mm F2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 for Sony E-mount at Amazon (2025, 20.3 oz). The A7CR’s generous 60-megapixel full-frame-sensor shot at 200mm is so sharp that it can be cropped to enlarge wildlife images.
20 ounces, less pricey, 20-megapixel Micro Four Thirds sensor with 28-280mm equivalent lens: the mighty Panasonic LUMIX G100D Mirrorless Camera at Amazon (2024, 11 oz) mounted with its most versatile travel lens, a 10x optical zoom Panasonic LUMIX G Vario 14-140mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH. POWER O.I.S. Lens at Amazon (2019, 9.3 oz). Its smaller sensor cuts in half the system weight and cost but captures just one-fourth as much light and one-third the megapixels.

PART B: the top POCKETABLE CAMERA
11 ounces: Sony RX100 VII or cheaper RX100 VI (Amazon) — reviewed in Tom’s article “Sony RX100M6” — beats smartphone sharpness by using a superior 8x optical zoom and larger 1-inch Type sensor. It’s great for my lightweight backpacking !
9 ounces: OM System (Olympus) Tough TG-7 waterproof camera (Amazon) is suitable for water sports where you don’t want to risk hurting your waterproof phone.

PART C: SMARTPHONES
are antiquating larger cameras by revolutionizing photo sharing while boosting their telephoto power and Night Mode.
■ As a new paradigm, the compact Apple iPhone 17 Pro now sports the same cameras and core power as the larger 17 Pro Max, including a 4x-power 48-megapixel optical telephoto (prices at Amazon).
■ For a given model year, the following rivals generally match Apple’s image quality: Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra & S25 Ultra (Amazon) and Google Pixel Pro 8, 9, and 10 (Amazon) — all with 5x optical tele.
■ Before buying a larger camera, upgrade your phone to a top model (like Pro or Ultra) made in the past year or two. The best camera is the one you have with you. 

Recommended PRINTERS ■ SCANNERS ■ MONITORACCESSORIESSOFTWARETIPS for travel in adverse conditions

Sony A7CR / Alpha 7CR (2023, 18.2 oz) with 8x optical zoom, Tamron 25-200mm F2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 for Sony E-mount (2025, 20.3 oz)
The world’s best digicam for travel is a 60-megapixel Sony A7CR (read my review) (2023, 18.2 oz) with 8x optical zoom, Tamron 25-200mm F2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 for Sony E-mount (2025, 20.3 oz). This amazingly sharp system weighs a moderate 38.5 ounces including lens, body, battery, and memory card.

PART A. Best MIDSIZE TRAVEL CAMERA

The world’s best travel system (read Tom’s review) is the Sony A7CR at Amazon (2023, 18.2 oz) 60-megapixel full-frame-sensor camera mounted with its sharpest travel lens, the 8x optical zoom Tamron 25-200mm F2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 for Sony E-mount at Amazon (2025, 20.3 oz) — 38.5 ounces total including body, lens, battery, and memory card (or 41 ounces when you add the strap, LCD cover, lens filter, lens cap, and hood). The A7CR’s impressive 60-megapixel full-frame-sensor (effective resolution 9504 x 6336 pixels) shot at 200mm can be cropped for wildlife images.

■ To maximize the “sweet spot” sharpness of the Tamron 28-200mm F2.8-5.6 lens for Sony E-Mount (Amazon), stop down by about two stops from each brightest aperture as you zoom (or double the f-number) — so at 28mm use f/5.6 — at 50mm use f/7 — at 100mm–200mm use f/9
■ Using this lens with Sony A7CR’s in-body image stabilization (IBIS, sensor-shift technology) rated at 7EV, I can carefully handhold sharp shots as slow as 0.5 seconds shutter speed at 28mm wide — and 1/10th of a second at 200mm telephoto.
■ This lens offers good macro focus — at 28mm, focus as close as 2 inches in front of the lens glass to enlarge subjects as small as 4.3″ by 2.9″. Shooting at f/5.6 will improve sharpness near the edges of the frame — better yet at f/11. At 200mm, you can focus at a useful 24″ working distance to enlarge an area of 5.3″ by 3.6″, but results will be softer than at 28mm.

Full-frame-sensor cameras excel at night, indoor, high ISO sensitivity 6400+, and very-large-print photography. But covering that large sensor area requires heavier glass, thereby restricting practical zoom ranges. When an image is well-shot in bright outdoor light, the advantages of full-frame cameras versus smaller APS-C or 1″-Type sensors (compared here) may only be noticeable upon close inspection when printed bigger than 3 feet diagonally. High megapixel counts such as 33 to 60 MP may seem like overkill for most practical publications, since a billboard only needs 3 to 10 megapixels at typical viewing distances. However, the extra megapixels become important when cropping to increase the reach of sharp digital telephoto.

The following cheaper cameras use sensors that are smaller in physical area and capture fewer megapixels (MP):

Midsize travel cameras with APS-C sensor

For travel, Sony’s venerable A6xxx system with APS-C sensor (such as A6300, new in 2016, reviewed here) was outgunned by Sony A7CR with full-frame sensor (new in 2023, reviewed here) mounted with the 8x Tamron zoom (new in 2025, reviewed in same article) and by the earlier Sony RX10M4 with 1″-Type sensor (new in 2018, discontinued in 2025, reviewed here).

Midsize travel camera with Micro Four Thirds sensor

Midsize travel cameras with 1″-Type sensor

have mostly been discontinued due to competition with rapidly-improving smartphones. The following flagship travel cameras are no longer produced:

  • Sony RX10M4 (new in 2018, discontinued in 2025, reviewed here).
  • If you can find one now, the best midsize camera for the money was formerly the Panasonic FZ1000 version II at Amazon (new in 2019, out of production 2025, 29 oz) with fast-focusing 16x zoom, 25-400mm equivalent f/2.8-4 Leica DC Lens, 20 MP, 1″-Type BSI sensor, and body size 3.8 x 5.2 by 5.4 inches. This all-in-one camera rivaled the zoom quality of APS-C-sensor and DSLR systems of this weight. The earlier FZ1000 version I had a noisier sensor and poorer LCD screen & EVF. The version II rivaled most cameras I used from 1978 through 2015.
  • Travelers may prefer FZ1000 II over the older, heavier Panasonic FZ2500 at Amazon (new in 2016, production stopped in 2020, 33 oz, 20x zoom 24-480mm f/2.8–4.5, 20 MP, called FZ2000 in some markets). In comparison to the discontinued Sony RX10 III, the Panasonic FZ2500 had a fully articulated LCD with touchscreen, increased viewfinder magnification (EVF 0.74x versus 0.7x), had better menus, and improved video specs (ND filter, Cine/UHD 4K). But FZ2500’s lens collected a half stop less light which lowered image quality; its telephoto didn’t reach long enough for birders; and its CIPA battery life of 350 shots lagged behind RX10III’s 420 shots.

A tiny 1/2.3″-Type sensor allows superzoom ranges in midsize travel cameras

Tiny, noisy 1/2.3″-Type sensors are leveraged well by smartphones’ superior processing power, but therein mostly limited to wider angles of view. When attached to larger-diameter lenses to collect more light, these little sensors usefully extend zoom range in the following fun midsize cameras that are “good enough” for wildlife photography:

Nikon COOLPIX P950 at Amazon (2020, 35 oz, 24–2000mm equivalent 83x zoom lens f/2.8–6.5, 1/2.3″ sensor, 16 MP). Fully articulated LCD. 290 shots per charge. P950 adds a flash hot shoe and can record RAW files (whereas older P900 only captured JPEGs).

Nikon COOLPIX P1100 at Amazon (2025, 50 oz, 16 MP, USB-C port, 24–3000mm equivalent 125x zoom lens f/2.8–8.0 on 1/2.3″ sensor) and nearly identical Nikon COOLPIX P1000 at Amazon (2018, micro-USB port) —

  • No practical DSLR or rival interchangeable mirrorless lens can reach 3000mm telephoto!
  • Both P1100 and P1000 have 4-stop CIPA-standard image stabilization and fully articulated LCD, but only get 250 shots per charge.
  • As in COOLPIX P950, their tiny 1/2.3″ sensor won’t beat the superior processing power of cellphone cameras unless shooting at telephoto greater than 50mm equivalent, in bright outdoor light. At this tiny sensor size, extra diffraction through the camera’s minuscule aperture degrades image quality.
  • But rival cameras would better cover 24-1000mm; for example, the 1″-sensor Sony RX10M4 (discontinued) shot at 600mm can be digitally cropped by 2x to outshine the P950, P1100, and P1000 up to about 1200mm equivalent. Based upon Nikon P1000 moon photos (Lensrentals.com), compared to my own moon shots on Sony RX10M4 at 600mm-equivalent, shooting the P1000 at 1500-3000mm equivalent may be sharper than digitally cropping RX10M4 to achieve the same angle of view. (Nikon’s “Moon Shot Mode” is JPEG only, no raw.) The comparison requires bright light, as with the sunlit lunar surface; but in dim light, RX10M4 will gain ground.

■ Cheapest, but discontinued: Panasonic Lumix FZ300 at Amazon (new in 2015, discontinued in 2023, 24.4 oz, 12 MP, bright f/2.8 lens 25-600mm equivalent, 24x zoom range, weather sealed).

UPGRADE YOUR OLD 2017 CAMERA

Tom quit swapping lenses in 2016 — when Sony’s impressive mirrorless designs antiquated DSLR cameras.

Cameras made prior to 2018 should be upgraded for better real resolution, lower noise at higher ISO speeds ≥800, and/or quicker autofocus. From 2009–2022, top cameras markedly improved handheld optical image stabilization (branded as Nikon VR, Canon IS, Panasonic OIS, Sigma OS, Tamron VC, Sony OSS & IBIS), largely freeing us from daytime tripod use.

The latest cameras capture more highlight and shadow detail by using better sensors plus automatic HDR (high dynamic range) imaging and other optimizations for JPEG files. On advanced models, I always edit raw format images to recover several stops (doublings of brightness) of highlight and shadow detail which would be lost with JPEG.

Old legacy DSLR-style cameras

feature an optical viewfinder seeing through the lens using a traditional mirror box. This design was superseded by cameras with a mirrorless Electronic Viewfinder / EVF which better portrays the final digital image — achieving “what you see is what you get.” This archived article covers tips on legacy DSLR cameras and lenses.

PART B. World’s best POCKETABLE TRAVEL CAMERA

The best and brightest pocketable 8x-zoom camera is the Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 version VII at Amazon (2019, 11 oz, RX100M7) with 24–200mm f/2.8-4.5 equivalent lens and optimal 1-inch-Type sensor. Read more about the sweet spot for sharp, portable zooms in Tom’s sensors article.

Or save money on its predecessor Sony RX100 version VI at Amazon (2018, 11 oz, RX100M6) — reviewed by Tom.

Accessories at Amazon: ■ Avoid dropping its slippery body by adding Sony AG-R2 attachment grip (Amazon). ■ Fit into Tamrac Digital 1 Photo Bag (Amazon) with extra Wasabi Power NPBX1 batteries (Amazon). ■ Avoid LCD scratches with QIBOX Premium GLASS Protector (Amazon).

Weather resistant pocketable cameras

  • OM System (Olympus) Tough TG-7 camera at Amazon (2023, still available in 2026, 9 oz, 25-100mm, f/2.0-4.9 lens) is waterproof, shockproof, and dust-resistant. Beat smartphone image quality by shooting and editing its raw format files, as I did after rafting the Grand Canyon using the earlier TG-4.
  • For hiking in the rain, a waterproof smartphone works well (plus adds offline topographic tracking via Gaia GPS, AllTrails, and other apps). My waterproof Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra phone handily captured red-eyed tree frogs mating during a pelting rainstorm in Costa Rica — a shot that would have ruined a larger camera! My Samsung Galaxy Note9 worked great in New Zealand rainforests.
  • Beware that seawater can corrode contacts even on waterproof phones, so a case or a TG-7 is advised. While a cheap CaliCase Universal Waterproof Case can take smartphones snorkeling under seawater, beware that 2 out of 4 copies that I received in 2018 noticeably softened camera resolution due to a milky stain on the already-blurry plastic window.

These well-rated, discontinued pocketable cameras are sold as “used”:

  1. Discontinued ~2024: Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 versions IV, III, II, or I (Amazon): within its limited 3x zoom is sharper and brighter than that sub-range of Panasonic’s 10x-zoom ZS100. Save money with used or earlier III, II or I versions — read Tom’s “Sony RX100 III review.”
  2. Discontinued ~2022: Best value pocketable superzoom: Panasonic ZS80 at Amazon (2019, 11.5 oz, 24–720mm equiv 30x zoom, 20 MP, Electronic ViewFinder/EVF).
  3. Discontinued ~2022: Cheap, tiniest 10x zoom: Canon PowerShot ELPH 190 IS at Amazon (2016, 5 oz, 24-240mm equivalent, 1/2.3″ sensor, but no viewfinder).
  4. Discontinued ~2021: Panasonic Lumix DC-ZS200 at Amazon (2018, 12 oz, 24-360mm equivalent lens f/3.3-6.4) outguns all pocket-size 1″-sensor rivals with a versatile 15x zoom, but sibling ZS100 is sharper and brighter through 10x.
  5. Discontinued ~2020: Panasonic Lumix DSC-ZS100 at Amazon (2016, 11 oz, 25-250mm equivalent lens f/2.8-5.9). Read Tom’s ZS100 review.

TIP: As a workaround for sluggish autofocus (AF) in cheaper compact cameras: pre-focus (lock) on a sharply defined edge of the subject by half pressing and holding the shutter button, then the subsequent full press will be instant, ≤ 0.15 second. But half-press autofocus lock doesn’t work in continuous focus or action modes. Don’t let an inferior camera frustrate your capture of action, people, pets, or sports. For surer action shots, upgrade to the latest models with hybrid AF (including pixels for phase detection) or use an interchangeable-lens camera. The following discontinued cameras featured fast hybrid AF: Panasonic ZS100Sony RX100, and midsize Panasonic FZ1000 version II (2019, 29 oz). 

PART C. Top SMARTPHONE CAMERAS

compensate for tiny cameras with ease-of-use, instant photo sharing, good close focus, and vast computational power achieving impressive AUTO HDR (for simultaneous capture of dark shadows and bright highlights). Get the latest most-advanced Pro or Ultra models for superior speed, telephoto, and night mode. Top brands include:

Photographers using Cloud storage can get away with 128GB internal storage on the phone. For business use, Tom prefers 256 or 512GB.

An “unlocked” phone lets you pick a lower-priced wireless service provider and/or install a cheap foreign eSIM (as I did in Japan 2025) or physical SIM card in each country visited (as I did in Japan 2018 and UK). To save money on your USA wireless carrier, consider Consumer Cellular (external link), which accesses AT&T’s complete USA-only network most cheaply while providing top customer support. Get Consumer Cellular’s “all-in-one SIM” from Target stores or via mail, then insert into an unlocked GSM phone and activate with their help. For international roaming capability when away from Wi-fi, I now use Consumer Cellular’s T-Mobile service. With my wife on Consumer Cellular’s AT&T and me on their T-Mobile service, together we broaden our USA coverage.

Off by default, be sure to turn ON your phone’s “Wi-Fi Calling” Setting, which costs nothing extra. Wi-Fi Calls in the USA will be clearer, if cell reception is poor where Wi-Fi is strong. When you are outside of USA, Wi-Fi Calls eliminate roaming charges when calling US phone numbers. While you are roaming, calls made to non-USA numbers are charged per-minute rates by both the foreign and home mobile network operators. When abroad, only use Wi-Fi service to access internet data; turn OFF “Data Roaming” to avoid unexpectedly large bills.

For a good smartphone tripod and mount, attach these together: Joby GorillaPod 1K Kit (Amazon) and Ulanzi ST-27 Metal Phone Tripod Mount Clip

RECOMMENDED PHOTO PRINTERS | SCANNERS | MONITOR

The 13-inch-wide Canon imagePROGRAF PRO-300 Printer (Amazon) with ten pigmented inks is excellent for photographers.

The 8.5-inch-wide Canon PIXMA TR8620 Multi-function Printer (Amazon) is an excellent value for a one-person office, with five ink colors including pigmented black, accepting paper from small media up to Legal 8.5×14-inches. (TR8620a initially costs less but ink cartridges cost about 20% more). Adding photo blue ink in the following model achieves slightly better color accuracy, but it’s hardly perceptible and costs more for ink usage: Canon PIXMA TS8320 (Amazon) combines a pigment-based black ink with dye-based cyan, magenta, yellow, “photo black” and photo blue inks.

SCANNERS: Plustek OpticFilm 8200i SE scanner (2014) reincarnates your slides & film digitally, with important infrared/ICE removal of dust & scratches. Or simply photograph your slides or prints with your smartphone, not bad.

MONITOR: ASUS PA328Q 32″ 16:9 4K/UHD IPS Monitor (Amazon), nicely precalibrated at the factory, has served me well since 2017.

RECOMMENDED CAMERA ACCESSORIES

  • Apple Photos (for iOS & MacOS) easily organizes photos for free on Apple devices — but be sure to add critical adjustment brushes with Google’s free yet powerful Snapseed app (for iOS, MacOS, Android, and Windows).
  • Adobe “20GB Photography Plan” — I rely on Lightroom Classic (LRC) to organize and edit 200,000+ photos stored on my Windows PC (consuming 5 terabytes, which would be way too large for Adobe Cloud). The included Photoshop helps build trickier panoramas, complex Layers, or CMYK color space for book publishing. I don’t use the less-powerful LR, the cloud-based version of Adobe Lightroom with its 20GB cloud. LR and LRC can both radically speed tonal editing, adjustment-brushing, cropping, organizing, sorting, and labeling of images.
  • Adobe “1TB Photography Plan” — is cheaper and uses the simpler Lightroom (LR) app to manage up to 1 terabyte (TB) of storage in the Adobe Cloud, accessible across multiple devices.

TIPS for travel in adverse conditions

  1. Weather & dust protection: Prudent bagging can avoid the extra expense of a weather-sealed body & lens – keep a camera handy, safely in a front pouch on your chest or hip (where it can be retrieved more quickly than from a pack on your back). Adverse fluctuations of temperature & humidity, or dusty conditions, or sea spray all require cameras to be double-protected in a zip-lock plastic bag inside the padded pouch (Amazon). Use a soft, absorbent silk cloth to wipe away moisture or dust from lens & body before bagging.
  2. Cold batteries: Using camera batteries (Amazon) below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (or 4 Celsius) loses their charge quicker, causing camera shut down or lock. Revive and extend battery life in cold or below-freezing weather by warming an extra battery or two in an interior pocket near your skin and swapping with the camera’s battery after every 5-10 minutes of cold exposure.
  3. Satellite communication: Stay in touch everywhere in the world via Iridium satellite with a 3.5-ounce Garmin InReach Mini 2 (Amazon): send and receive 160-character text messages with GPS coordinates (accurate to five meters) to cell numbers or email addresses worldwide and post updates to social media. Tom found it valuable for texting with his wife while backpacking. Good battery life. This affordable technology connects campers, hikers, hunters, backpackers, alpinists, and backcountry skiers who often venture outside of cell phone networks. Messages are easy to read on the Mini 2. But Smartphone connection via Bluetooth is required for a faster keyboard and smoother interface, as the Mini 2 screen and menus are otherwise very slow for typing characters. While charging, the Garmin disconnects from the smartphone. The month-to-month “Freedom – Recreation” plan is $34.95/month, which can be paused as desired to save money in ensuing months (unlimited SOS, 40 text messages/month both sent & received then 0.50 overage per text, unlimited preset messages set up on website, unlimited 10-minute tracking). You only pay for active months plus an annual $34.95 activation fee on the anniversary of initial activation into Freedom Plans. In case of SOS, info is shared with Garmin International Emergency Response Coordination Center. 24/7 monitoring & emergency dispatch benefit is available to anyone using your inReach. Compared to Mini 1, version 2 uses a quicker chip set and more satellites (Multi-GNSS, over 100).

What makes an ideal travel camera?

The “best” travel camera is the one you want to carry everywhere. For many people, a smartphone is sufficient — so get one with the best telephoto reach as in the latest Pro or Ultra models.

Here on Photoseek.com, I recommend travel cameras which MINIMIZE bulk and weight while MAXIMIZING sensor dimensions, zoom range, lens diameter, battery life ( ≥ 350 shots), and ISO “sensitivity” (for lower noise in dim light). A sharp optical zoom lens should magnify the field of view by a factor of 8x to 25x to rapidly frame diverse subjects, without the bulk or annoyance of swapping lenses. Lenses should autofocus fast (with hybrid AF minimizing shutter lag ≤ 0.3 second), stabilize images to counteract camera shake, and focus closely (for good macro enlargement).

Travel cameras should flip out (articulate, hinge, or swivel) a high-resolution display screen to jump-start your creative macro, movie and candid shooting at arm’s length. OLED displays usually outshine LCD. Sunny-day reflections often obscure display-screen visibility − but to save bulk, most pocket cameras sadly lack a viewfinder. A camera with a brilliant electronic viewfinder (preferably EVF with ≥ 1 million dots) gives superior live feedback on the final digital image than a non-digital optical viewfinder.

Terminology and metric conversions

Camera weights quoted in this article include battery and memory card.

  • oz = ounces — the above camera weights in ounces (oz) include battery and memory card.
  • g = grams — multiply ounces by 28.35 to get grams
  • mm millimeters | 10 millimeters = 1 centimeter (cm) | multiply centimeters (cm) by 0.3937 to get inches
  • ILC = Interchangeable Lens Compact = “midsize mirrorless camera” term used on Photoseek.com
  • DSLR = Digital Single Lens Reflex = a traditional camera where an optical viewfinder uses a mirror to see through an interchangeable lens
  • EVF = Electronic Viewfinder
  • OLED (Organic Light-Emitting Diode) consumes less power and beats an LCD in dynamic range from darkest to brightest.
  • LCD = Liquid Crystal Display
  • MP = megapixel = a million pixels
  • equivalent lens = To compare lenses on cameras having different sensor sizes, equiv or equivalent lens refers to what would be the lens focal length (measured in mm or millimeters) that would give the same angle of view on a “full frame35mm-size sensor (or 35mm film camera, using 135 film cartridge).
    • Compared lenses are equivalent only in terms of angle of view. (To determine sharpness or quality, read lens reviews which analyze at 100% pixel views.)
    • Crop factor = how many times smaller is the diagonal measurement of a small sensor than a “full frame” 35-mm size sensor. For example, the 1.5x crop factor for Nikon DX format (APS-C size sensor) makes a lens labeled 18-200mm to be equivalent in angle of view to a 27-300mm focal length lens used on a 35mm film camera. The 2x crop factor for Micro Four Thirds sensors makes a lens labeled 14-140mm to be equivalent in angle of view to a 28-280mm lens used on a 35mm film camera.
  • 10x zoom range = a zoom lens’ telephoto focal length divided by its wide angle focal length in mm. For example, a 14-140mm focal length zoom has a 10x zoom range (140 divided by 14). An 18-200mm zoom has an 11x zoom range (200 divided by 18).
  • equivalent F-stop = refers to the F-stop (F-number) on a full-frame-sensor camera which has the same hole diameter as the F-stop of the camera lens being compared. The concept of “equivalent” F-stop lets you compare capabilities for creating shallow depth of field on cameras with different-size sensors. Smaller-sensor cameras use shorter focal lengths for the same field of view, so at a given F-stop they have a smaller physical aperture size, meaning more depth of field (with less blur in front of and behind the focused subject). Formula: F Number (or Relative Aperture) = actual focal length of lens divided by diameter of the entrance pupil.

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28 thoughts on “BEST 2026 TRAVEL CAMERAS reviewed: midsize, pocketable, smartphone”

  1. Question from Bradley F. June 20, 2017:
    Just curious why you left out the [Panasonic] FZ200 & FZ300? Specially the FZ300, it has a great constant 2.8 zoom up to 600mm equivalent, very fast auto focus and full res continuous shooting. It is also weatherproof and very lightweight and has very good 4K video and photo capabilities. I haven’t had the opportunity to shoot the 300 yet but had the FZ150 and presently own the FZ200 and love both cameras. I have a Sony A77ii that I am considering selling as I find myself shooting with the Panasonic most of the time. What are your thoughts on the FZ300? Thanks for your opinion, I really enjoy your website. Best regards, Brad

    Tom Dempsey replied:
    Good question! Panasonic FZ200 and FZ300 use a tiny 1/2.3” sensor which can struggle in dim light and can limit the size of large sharp prints. This may not be a problem if you are happy with your current print size & image quality. A skilled photographer can compensate for small-sensor camera limitations to create evocative images. Most viewers aren’t concerned how an image was captured, unless they are photographers who like the latest gear, but even the most skilled photographers will be hard pressed to distinguish which type of camera shot an image (without being told). I regularly publish images from a variety of cameras. Today’s 1″ sensor cameras beat the enlargement quality of my 35mm film cameras used through 2004 (when I switched to digital).

    Let’s compare the following interesting cameras, listed in order of image quality, best shown last (you get what you pay for):
    1. Panasonic FZ200 (2012, 20 oz, 12 mp) 1/2.3″ sensor, 25-600mm equiv f/2.8, $350
    2. Panasonic FZ300 (2015, 24 oz, 12 mp) 1/2.3″ sensor, 25-600mm equiv f/2.8, $500
    3. Panasonic FZ1000 (2014, 29 oz, 20 mp) 1″ sensor, 25-400mm equiv f/2.8-4, $700
    4. Panasonic FZ2500 (2016, 32 oz, 20 mp) 1″ sensor, 24-480mm equiv f/2.8-4.5, $1200
    5. Sony RX10 III (2016, 37 oz, 20 mp) 1″ sensor, 24-600mm equiv f/2.4-4, $1600

    The 1″ sensor (designed by Sony, identical in the last 3 cameras) has four times larger light gathering area than the 1/2.3″ sensor in the FZ200 and FZ300, with significantly more megapizels (20 mp versus 12 mp). Also, this new sensor has much more efficient backside illumination (BSI) technology than the older 1/2.3” sensor, for higher quality. (I discovered a quality improvement in the 1” sensor allowing it to rival Sony’s larger APS-C sensor without BSI.)

    When you compare the image quality at 100% pixel view, the 1″ sensor is clearly superior to 1/2.3″:
    Check out the pixel comparison tool at dpreview.com comparing the above cameras. Click around the tool’s image to examine especially the corners, and look at quality at common dim light ISO settings such as ISO 800+ or other settings you commonly use. This tool only shows one lens angle of view, but not telephoto, which is another story not often reported on testing websites (so I like to test my new cameras head to head). Sony RX10 III is especially good in my telephoto tests against a larger-sensor flagship camera.

    With its larger, higher-quality sensor, it turns out that an image from the FZ1000 at 400mm can be cropped to beat the framing of the same subject shot on FZ300 at 600mm. The best combination of sensor size, increased megapixels, and good glass is found in Sony RX10 III. But if you want to save weight, the FZ1000 is a great camera value, generally superior to FZ300 or FZ200, depending upon what you’re looking for.

    Brad responded:
    Tom, Thank you for the quick response. I think I’m more confused than ever lol. I always have a difficult time deciding what to buy. On paper the A77ii seemed like the perfect camera for me aside from the bulk but I have not really gotten consistent results. I’m sure much to user error and lack of knowledge. It just seems my shots are often just out of focus. I bought a 2.8 70-200 Sony zoom, a Sony 50mm prime and the camera came with the 16-50mm 2.8 lens so I don’t think it’s a matter of having good lenses. Sorry for rambling. I guess my question is what do you think of the A77ii? Is the Sony RX10 III a worthy replacement or should I go to the A99 full sensor and just stick with a smaller super zoom like the FZ300 for a smaller lighter travel camera. So confused. Thanks for taking the time to maintain a useful website and answering ridiculous emails.

    Tom responded:
    We’re actually in a golden age of cameras, with a confounding myriad of confusing choices! After 39 years of photography, I’ve found what gear works best for publishable quality while traveling light.

    The Sony SLT-A77ii is an excellent camera, faster focusing and almost as sharp in resolutioin as my Sony A6300 mirrorless camera (according to the standard test shots at dpreview.com). A77ii should be much sharper than Panasonic FZ200 or FZ300, especially at ISO 800 and higher, especially with your excellent f/2.8 lenses.

    But for general travel photography, I’ve now given up on my Sony A6300 system, as the all-in-one Sony RX10 III easily antiquates the Sony E-mount lens system in terms of lightweight travel, as described in my article: Sony RX10 III superb 25x travel zoom outshines 11x on APS-C. The A6300 is now relegated to my indoor event photography or night shots on tripod, as the larger sensor should theoretically be better in low light if I use a top lens.

    By the way, the problems you mentioned with focus on A77ii can be due to various causes, such as shallow depth of field, handheld blur due to slow shutter speed, etc — most likely a learning opportunity (smile) [unless your camera is damaged, in which case every shot would likely be out of focus]. Cameras by default hunt across multiple possible focus points, usually looking for the closest, brightest, most contrasty area, which is often not the subject you wanted to focus on.

    For more reliable focus in landscape or macro photography, I prefer to set a single focus point in the center (not using Continuous focus, just Single). I half press the shutter release to lock focus on a defined edge of the subject, recompose, then fully press the shutter release. Or for people photography, I turn on Sony’s excellent Eye-Detection AF (or Face-Detection) and use a wider focus selection area with multiple possible focus points.

    If the A77ii isn’t working well for you, a pricey A99 wouldn’t necessarily change your results, as the full-frame-sensor A99 has even shallower depth of field, good for traditional portrait photography, but your chosen focusing point must be more precise (due to the physics of the larger sensor). You may possibly find that Panasonic FZ200 and FZ300 are much easier and more fun to use than A77ii or A99 for certain tasks, such as lightweight travel. DSLR designs are generally harder to learn and use.

    Although its camera menus are harder to learn than Panasonic’s, the Sony RX10 III is currently the best-ever tool for my travel photography, beating any other current system that I’m aware of (full-frame, APS-C, 1” sensor etc), in terms of excellent publishable quality for a given travel weight & convenience. You would need to swap a lens system at least 2 or 3 times heavier on a bulkier larger-sensor camera to beat RX10III’s superbly sharp 24-600mm equivalent f/2.4-4 lens in a 37-ounce box. Happy photo hunting!

  2. “Upgrade your cameras every 3 or 4 years”

    What kind of advice is that? Just because you have decided that it is right for you does not mean that it is the right thing for everyone. DIfferent photographers have different needs.

    It is exactly what the manufacturer’s want us to do. Make us dis-satisfied with perfectly good equipment. CHURN, Churn, churn. Profits for them, money we could have put to better use gone, a re-learning process to go through. There is probably even more expense on a new de-mosaicer, and a new computer to run the later version of the OS that it requires, and extra disk for the larger files. And for what?

    … in most cases to carry on producing exactly what we produced before. The extra “quality” often turns out to be irrelevant.

    At low-ISO, in good light, and with good technique it is hard to tell an image from a current camera from one made with a 10+ year old DSLR.
    Fair enough if you NEED more resolution or less noise or 4K video, but if you don’t …

    … “upgrading” is pointless if the camera you have, in the way that you use it, produces images as good as necessary, for whatever you want to do with them!

    1. I agree that skilled photographers can work around the limitations of older cameras (or less-capable sensors) to get results that are usually indistinguishable from newer, superior cameras (especially if you don’t need large, sharp prints). I have felt this way since starting shooting film in 1978. My advice in the article is still true if you include the whole sentence: “TIP: Upgrade your camera every 2 or 3 years as I do to get better real resolution, lower noise at higher ISO speeds ( ≥ 800), and quicker autofocus.” I say this entirely for your own self interest, independent of what the manufacturers want.

      In teaching local photographers (many who have gear older than 5 years and don’t necessarily want to change), I advise them to master their current camera and workflow, which can get perfectly good results, once they ascend far enough along their learning curve. The learning curve on a new, unfamiliar workflow can sometimes be a barrier, such that many would be better off learning their current system. But with gear older than 5 years old, I notice my students fighting a steeper uphill battle with poor results on Auto, poorer-performing sensors, low effective resolution, poor dynamic range, poor image stabilization, and slow autofocus. In many cases, their learning curve towards better photography could be eased by upgrading the camera (or by using their modern smartphone made 2015-2017 with excellent HDR Auto, making photography much user-friendlier for capturing more realistic shadows and highlights by default).

  3. January 9, 2017 Comment from Quentin F:
    Thanks for your thorough and thoughtful review on travel cameras. I’m wondering why Olympus’s OM-D or PEN cameras did not make your list. They seem to be well-received by other reviewers.

    Tom replied: Good question. By the way, from 1978−97, I used and loved an Olympus OM-1N film camera; and recently I bought Olympus Tough TG-4 (price at Amazon) for snorkeling shots in Hawaii.

    Olympus’s OM-D and PEN cameras are excellent quality and can certainly capture good images. However, comparing portable travel size, weight, image quality, zoom range and price, you get a better deal with an 11x zoom travel lens on a Sony A6000, A6300, or A6500, which all have a 24-megapixel APS-C size sensor, 50% bigger in physical surface area than the 4/3 sensor in Olympus OM-D or PEN (which have only captured 16 megapixels until 2016, when 20mp were introduced in Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II and PEN F; probably the same sensor as in Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX8).

    Now with the Sony RX10 III (read my article) new in May 2016, my zoom range has more than doubled to 25x while maintaining equal or better image quality, a rather surprising result for a 1” type sensor (smaller than Micro Four Thirds or APS-C). This improvement is possible due to new superior BSI sensor design, plus fast lens (f2.4-4, 24-600mm equiv) with notably large light-gathering diameter (72mm) and very sharp optics.

    Quentin replied: Thanks for your prompt and personalized reply! The main problem with the “bridge” cameras is their bulkiness compared to the compacts and even the Oly 4/3. Always choices to make!

  4. What is the best 4K travel camera ($2000 and below)? I was originally considering the Samsung NX1 but due to rumors that Samsung is closing, I am turning my attention to the the Panasonic GX8. I sure hope Olympus/Canon/Nikon starts selling small 4K cameras. (Note: Sony a7sii and a7rii are jusst too expensive)

    1. Choosing your “best” 4K-video travel camera hinges upon your lens choices, desired camera size, price, and many other factors:
      – I admire the Samsung NX1’s superb image quality, fantastic for both 4K video and also 28mp stills with great dynamic range, one of the best-ever APS-C-size-sensor mirrorless cameras! But for me, Samsung NX1 is rather heavy for a travel camera, with body alone weighing 19.4 oz (including battery). NX1’s lens choices are limited but include some real winners, such as the sharp but heavy 21-oz weather-sealed 16-50mm f/2-2.8mm lens. Samsung has widely marketed their successful NX1 camera business and I would be surprised to see it cease in the USA [see http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2015/09/23/rumor-busted-samsung-is-not-exiting-the-camera-business-at-least-not-the-on]; but as of Nov 26, 2015 Samsung has closed their camera business in UK and Germany.

      Considering a 4k-video camera with smaller 4/3-inch-size sensor can lighten the weight of your lenses+camera and gives more lens choices than an NX1:
      — Panasonic GX8 (2015, 17.1 oz body, 20mp, but no built-in flash) is a great choice for 4k video, as is the earlier GH4 (2014, 20 oz body, 16mp).
      — Handy for framing rapidly-varying travel subjects, the Panasonic Lumix G Vario HD 14-140mm f/4.0-5.8 ASPH/MEGA OIS lens (16 oz, 28-280mm equivalent) rivals the optical quality of competing 10x to 11x zooms, even compared to APS-C.

      But if 4k-video capabilities are more important for you than still-image quality, you may not need much more than a 1-inch-type sensor (unless you like filming in dim light or need the shallower depth of field possible with larger sensors). If saving both money and weight on a 4k video camera is important, consider a small 1-inch-type sensor:
      — Panasonic FZ1000 (2014, 29 oz includes a versatile 25-400mm 16x travel lens, 20 mp).
      — The best-ever pocket-sized camera now shoots great 4k video: Sony RX100 version IV (2015, 10.5 oz, 20mp with fast 24-70mm lens, with good pop-up EVF/viewfinder).

      Essential for video, the following cameras fully articulate their LCD screen: Panasonic GX8, GH4, and FZ1000. The others only tilt their LCD (Samsung NX1, Sony RX100 IV).

      All of the above 4k-video cameras support the UHD 4k standard with 16:9 proportion for 4k televisions (3840×2160 pixels, displayed progressively at 2160p) (Ultra High Definition or UHD can also be called “QuadHD” for having 4 times more screen pixels than “Full HD” 1080p resolution). But only NX1 and GH4 support the DCI 4k standard for commercial cinema projection (4096×2160 pixels, 17:9 proportion).

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